What do you need help with your G1 Insight today?
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235 Posts
P0171 lean codes most likely a vacuum leak at the intake system if you look at short term fuel trim you should be +/- 10% to -10% every 2-3 sec usually at lower percentage points than the max, any time it’s over 10% your adding fuel for a lean condition and it will set a code once it reaches 25% so look for vacuum leaks smoke test is the best way, but you can use a tach and some brake cleaner and watch for rpm increase when you find the leaks but smoke is really the best way
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2,335 Posts
Answering my own question: I lowered the air pressure on the current tires (3 of 4 RE92, one Dunlop) and was happy with the reduced noise and smoother rise while reaching 65 MPG. The car corners well enough. I'm going to try some inexpensive 155/65R14s.
no power at 4000RPM+ / no charge or assist
While driving on the highway into work this morning, had to downshift into 3rd to pass a vehicle while going up a hill on the highway... the car would not rev past 4k, in any gear. When I got to work and shut the car off, started it back up and then revved it. It was able to rev past 4k at a standstill... will check on my lunch to see if the problem is still present.
also,
sometimes, the charge and assist doesn't work on the car and i'm running on just gas. For example, this morning, car was charging and assisting for the start of my drive, once the engine warmed up, no more charging and assisting.
This problem I have been having for a couple of months. But it's intermittent. It doesn't always happen when the car warms up.. sometimes I can go a couple of days with no issues. or a couple of days with issues.
Any ideas?
While driving on the highway into work this morning, had to downshift into 3rd to pass a vehicle while going up a hill on the highway... the car would not rev past 4k, in any gear. When I got to work and shut the car off, started it back up and then revved it. It was able to rev past 4k at a standstill... will check on my lunch to see if the problem is still present.
also,
sometimes, the charge and assist doesn't work on the car and i'm running on just gas. For example, this morning, car was charging and assisting for the start of my drive, once the engine warmed up, no more charging and assisting.
This problem I have been having for a couple of months. But it's intermittent. It doesn't always happen when the car warms up.. sometimes I can go a couple of days with no issues. or a couple of days with issues.
Any ideas?
How many miles on the drive cycles. Short trip or long trips. Sounds like you are soon to have a P-1447 CEL on the IMA system.
How many miles on the engine? Need more information.
Willie
How many miles on the engine? Need more information.
Willie
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8,642 Posts
I was gonna say do the opposite - increase the pressure. I have some suspension mods that allow me to push the car hard in corners, and I find that RE92s can handle an awful lot - if they have about 38 psi or more. Otherwise, they'll fold... I can hit 90 degree corners doing about 35-40 mph, dry, without the tires breaking loose. That seems pretty fast and hard to me... Before the suspension mods, something else would make that feel too scary - so in a stock car it doesn't seem like the tires are the weakest link...
In any event, though, sounds like you're after something else, such as comfort ('reduced noise, smoother ride')...
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2,335 Posts
I decreased the pressure to spec! It was nice and the mileage still good. I thought today about getting another set but priced it out and read a good review here on the Federal Formosa FD2. So I ordered 2 at $38 each, and will get two more if they work out. We shall see.
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2,335 Posts
I decreased the pressure to spec! As you said, it was quieter, stuck on turns, and the mileage still good. I thought today about getting another set but priced it out and read a positive review here on the Federal Formosa FD2. So I ordered two at $38 each, and will get two more if they work out. We shall see.
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2,757 Posts
17146-PHM-004
It's $21 on G1parts.com but they're made of stainless steel. I always re-use them. I've cleaned 3 EGR plates and never had trouble with the original gaskets.
Update,
Had the following codes come up
P0325 - Knock Sensor
P0420 - Cat below threshold
P1457 - Evap Leak
P1121 - TPS Input Low
P1259 - VTEC Solenoid
Cleared the codes and drove home, only P0325 came back after an hour of highway driving.
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2,757 Posts
Door locks act funny. Sometimes they lock, sometimes they unlock, sometimes they do nothing. Any ideas? I'm guessing electrical issues more likely than motor problems because all 3 locks were not working properly.
Trunk latch didn't work either, I got that fixed with the 3d printed part AND bypassing the bad (corrosion) connector behind the passenger side B pillar trim.
Trunk latch didn't work either, I got that fixed with the 3d printed part AND bypassing the bad (corrosion) connector behind the passenger side B pillar trim.
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5,860 Posts
I've had the door lock problem on all of my 2000s. They have worked fine on the 2001-2003. I haven't had one newer than 2003.
On my first one I removed the door panel and saw that somebody had assembled the rods incorrectly and they were crossed and rubbed each other. I routed them correctly and it was much better, but not perfect.
Sam
On my first one I removed the door panel and saw that somebody had assembled the rods incorrectly and they were crossed and rubbed each other. I routed them correctly and it was much better, but not perfect.
Sam
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1,480 Posts
With that many codes I would say a ground or a bad 12v battery are prime suspects. I can't remember even seeing once of someone having a bad knock sensor and TPS sensor issues are pretty rare.
When you have low 12v voltage or have an inconsistent ground you get some really strange issues and codes. Mine likes going through the terminal connectors for some reason. Make sure your terminals are clean and then put the special grease on them and tighten them. If you have a multimeter remove and check the grounds have consistent low resistance or just replace them, they're not expensive. Get new hardware and also take the paint off where the ground goes so it's not just trying to put the ground through the threads which are likely corroded by now.
will do the following, thanks!
I am in need of a new fuel pump (when I go around curves with less than a half tank of gas the engine sputters / misses until I straighten out...but this doesn't happen with more than half tank). Anyhow, can I change the fuel pump from inside the car without having to drop the tank? I've changed the battery pack before and can see the plate that covers the fuel pump. Or should I bite the bullit and drop the tank?
FDR
FDR
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5,860 Posts
You remove it from the top, inside the car.
Sam
Sam
Sounds like the car has been in an accident and the pickup of the fuel pump has been relocated. Need more history.
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2,335 Posts
Questions:
1. What would it take to tell the DC-DC converter to turn back on at, say, 12.4 volts instead of when it feels like it?
2. Anyone dealt with P0443? Has to do with the evap valve/circuit, and I think it is only thrown by an 06 (maybe an 05).
3. Gonna put my IMA battery on the bench to charge. Got my 40+ amp Meanwell to charge the 12V on the road while the IMA is out. Don't care about codes being thrown, autostop, etc (this is temporary). Do I just need to connect the Meanwell output to where the DC-DC output connects, and make a full wave rectifier from the IMA motor wires to the Meanwell input? Or is other magic required to make the car start/run?
1. What would it take to tell the DC-DC converter to turn back on at, say, 12.4 volts instead of when it feels like it?
2. Anyone dealt with P0443? Has to do with the evap valve/circuit, and I think it is only thrown by an 06 (maybe an 05).
3. Gonna put my IMA battery on the bench to charge. Got my 40+ amp Meanwell to charge the 12V on the road while the IMA is out. Don't care about codes being thrown, autostop, etc (this is temporary). Do I just need to connect the Meanwell output to where the DC-DC output connects, and make a full wave rectifier from the IMA motor wires to the Meanwell input? Or is other magic required to make the car start/run?
To answer your third question, it's just the 3 orange wires to the 3 leads on the 3-phase rectifier in any order, then two leads from the two on the rectifier to the input on the meanwell, and then connect 12V output from your car to the output leads of the meanwell. There's a little adjustable screw on the back of the meanwell to adjust output voltage.
This is the rectifier I bought: https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-Heatsink-Shape-Bridge-Rectifier/dp/B01JKRIPUK/
It has a heat sink built into it and stays cooler than the meanwell itself.
There is also a tiny parasitic drain (100mA IIRC?) from the meanwell when the car is off. To stop this some people use a relay; I'm using a manual kill switch. If it's just temporary you should be fine if you drive the car at least once every few days.
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