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Pull fuse number 16 under the bonnet for app. 15 sec. re-insert the fuse. Start the car and let it idle till the SOC is full.
Thanks!

I gave them another call to see what things they've done. They told me they had disconnected the small 12V battery while installing the new battery, but I didn't tell them about the fuse (in case of miscommunication)

Hope this fuse pull clears the IMA and CEL and all is good! Keep you guys posted!
 

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Disconnecting the 12V will also accomplish a reset. The car will have to be idled for 10 minutes or so before any charge will show on the battery gauge. Then it will gradually climb to full or nearly full as it is driven.

Rather than driving, you can also race the engine at around 4000 RPM. That will produce about 4 bars of regeneration which will raise the battery a bit quicker than driving, but some folks don't like to race the engine.

All this is doing is recalibrating the battery gauge, since the system has been reset.
 

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:( Pulling battery and fuse didnt work (unless I'm doing it wrong?)

I got the car back and did an OBD scan, its P1568 trying to do more diagnostics/reading.
 

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Next thing to do is to blink codes because there are three subcodes. Use this procedure:


All you need is a bent paper clip to short the two appropriate pins, so it is very easy to do.

The plug is under the dash, usually on right side behind the center console and next to carpet. On some years, under dash driver's side, just above the right knee.

WRITE DOWN the codes you get. You want to look at the blinking on the IMA light, right side of dash.

Report back:)

I take it that this is a new IMA battery that you are having someone install for you???
 

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Discussion Starter #67
I am looking at a pile of METSCI and BATSCI data. I was wondering if someone who's looked at this stuff can provide a few gentle pointers to set me in the right direction. Targeted searches with Google are not helping. There is a lot of talk about METSCI and BATSCI and you'd think by now there'd be a document posted with the signals, but I can't find it.
  1. Do we have a relatively solid decode of either posted somewhere here or on the interwebs?
  2. I'm seeing 33 METSCI messages a second and 10 BATSCI messages a second. Which ECUs are sending these the most?
  3. RS485 is a bidirectional bus, but who (other than the senders mentioned above) sends on this bus?
  4. Does anyone have bookmarks to key posts they can share?
 

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I am looking at a pile of METSCI and BATSCI data. I was wondering if someone who's looked at this stuff can provide a few gentle pointers to set me in the right direction. Targeted searches with Google are not helping. There is a lot of talk about METSCI and BATSCI and you'd think by now there'd be a document posted with the signals, but I can't find it.
  1. Do we have a relatively solid decode of either posted somewhere here or on the interwebs?
  2. I'm seeing 33 METSCI messages a second and 10 BATSCI messages a second. Which ECUs are sending these the most?
  3. RS485 is a bidirectional bus, but who (other than the senders mentioned above) sends on this bus?
  4. Does anyone have bookmarks to key posts they can share?
Sean.............ok, I'll be gentle, since you're a friend;)

If you just put "METSCI" into the search bar, you get a ton of threads where it is mentioned. I can't imagine you wouldn't get some help from some of that. Here is the return list I got:


Same is true of "BATSCI." Here is my search returns:


The "METSCI" search looks to be more extensive, and includes info on both. I just did a very quick scan and I think some of the threads might help you.

I remind you that the Electrical Troubleshooting guide contains the complete schematics for the car and might be some help. Probably more helpful would be mudder's corrected single schematic, but you'll have to come up with that. I don't have a link.

You're welcome. Yo friend Jim:)
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Sean.............ok, I'll be gentle, since you're a friend;)

If you just put "METSCI" into the search bar, you get a ton of threads where it is mentioned. I can't imagine you wouldn't get some help from some of that. Here is the return list I got:


Same is true of "BATSCI." Here is my search returns:


The "METSCI" search looks to be more extensive, and includes info on both. I just did a very quick scan and I think some of the threads might help you.

I remind you that the Electrical Troubleshooting guide contains the complete schematics for the car and might be some help. Probably more helpful would be mudder's corrected single schematic, but you'll have to come up with that. I don't have a link.

You're welcome. Yo friend Jim:)
This is awesome, and helps a lot. This post was quite helpful with the decoding (namely, the spreadsheet that it linked to): A working car on the bench.....

Since the data is only 9600 BPS I might just drop a couple of HC-05s on the METSCI and BATSCI lines (hmmm, I was thinking of a transistor as a buffer, but I have a couple of RS485 converters in the junque box) which would let me study the data from inside the house.
 

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but I have a couple of RS485 converters in the junque box) which would let me study the data from inside the house.
Now that's the way to work any mod - from your easy chair with a coffee in hand :LOL:
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Now that's the way to work any mod - from your easy chair with a coffee in hand :LOL:
Thank you for the help.

So basically, the BCM is a glorified battery monitor, providing a full update to whoever cares every 60 milliseconds, but doesn't accept any commands? (because, what could it do with them anyways?)

Next question. There is 90+ ms of silence on the METSCI bus between messages. Has anyone ever tried to send arbitrary data on the METSCI bus between valid METSCI messages? For example, at a higher data rate? If so, did the attached devices complain, or did they just decode the data and toss data when bad parity bits or bad checksums were calculated?

(I googled and searched the site and didn't get any hits on this.)

'cause then you could make the BCM drop stick voltages on the METSCI bus for others to read without getting near any high voltages.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
I'm having trouble with my search-foo today. I'm looking for baseline maximum current specs, as demanded by the vehicles (ie, what Honda deemed to be the acceptable maximum) for the Gen 1 insight and the Fit which is the source of the LTO packs.

Anyone know:

- what is the maximum current a stock Gen 1 will demand from a stock, new IMA battery? (not what has anyone managed to accomplish with mods, but what is the max assist or regen current an unmodified car will demand from a good pack?)

- same question, but for the Honda Fit. What's the maximum current that will pass through a Fit cell? Are the fit cells wired in series like the Insight? (or do I need to divide that number by two to find the maximum current through any one cell?)

- does the Gen 1 limit its maximum current output if the four temperature sensors among the sticks measure high or low temperature? at what point does that current reduction begin? (not talking about the reduction that happens after a few seconds of assist or regen).
 

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I'm looking at replacing my front catalytic converter. The rear one was completely plugged and a pipe was installed in its place. It already had a spacer on the rear 02 so no codes from missing the rear cat. When they were in there they said the front catalytic converter was falling apart inside and should be replaced, with how many miles I drive the car and how far from home I drive I am ready to spend the money to change it I just want to make sure I'm going about it the right way.

As best as I can remember from what they were telling me the shop wants to remove the exhaust and cut the flange off the manifold. From there they're going to weld a pipe with a bend onto the manifold that's going to be welded onto the generic catalytic converter and then the factory cat back will be welded onto the converter.

I'm thinking with the rust on the flanges already that there isn't much point in getting a direct fit cat because the flange will likely not be in good enough shape. The bottom flange of the front cat was basically shot, the bolts and springs were completely eaten away to where it wasn't clamped together on both sides. It's possible the top flange being higher is in better shape enough to be reused, I can ask what they think.

Is there a huge risk on a 20 year old car having them remove the manifold to where I should be looking at direct fit if at all possible? It will be roughly the same price either way, cheaper cat more labor, more expensive cat less labor.

If the remove the manifold I'd like new studs put in but I'm having an impossible time finding exhaust manifold studs, are these actually built into the head and non removable?
 

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You should just order a direct fit. I looked and see several listings on the interwebs.

The Insight, exhaust manifold is built in as part of the cylinder head. There are 3 exhaust studs that are removable from the head and can be replaced. I stock the studs.
Your studs may be difficult to remove due to the amount of rust.

Don’t have the exhaust shop or mechanic cobble together something, just order a direct fit assembly.

Scott
 

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Ok, so you're saying the manifold itself doesn't come off at all? Those three studs you're referencing are the ones that attach the flange of the converter to the manifold correct?

For whatever reason I thought that I saw nuts holding on the manifold to the head but I looked and couldn't find any, I'm not sure why I remembered it that way. I also thought there were two flanges. One on the manifold and one on the converter. That's why I was getting so screwed up thinking about it.

So I'll definitely be going direct fit, they're pretty cheap and way less variables that way. The only reason I was considering custom was the flange issue which is a non issue it turns out.

Is there a particular catalytic converter that everyone likes and has been reliable besides the factory one that's apparently made of solid gold? I'm harder than most on vehicles and with my friendliness with the redline I'm sure that's harder on the cat than usual since it richens up the mixture at full throttle. I'd prefer one that has the heat shield on it already. I don't think running without a heat shield would be advisable.

The final part of this is involving the bottom flange of the catalytic converter. My exhaust's flanges were rusted out so I had to have a flex pipe put in. Would the best option be for them to weld on a new flange and keep the flange on the bottom of the catalytic converter or would we be better off cutting off that flange and welding the flex pipe to the new catalytic converter? I'm thinking the first option but figured I should check.
 

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Over nine months here, and I'm still learning about new Insight things. But some things that would seem obvious information to others are really hard to find, with many posts to sift through to get key information. I don't want to add to that noise!

In ham radio land there are people called "Elmers" who are experienced old-timers who are happy to help nubes figure things out. In other forums there are folks who are happy to jump in with a link, understanding that sometimes a valuable post doesn't hold the keywords the poster was thinking of, in exchange for a click on the "thanks" link.

In the same spirit of "What did you do with your G1 Insight today?", I wanted to put this thread out there for people to feel safe to ask "dumb" questions and readily find replies from those happy to provide answers. Maybe for questions that might not rise to the level of a new thread, or don't fit well in an existing one. A zone safe from "search is your friend" replies, where we don't care if a question has been asked 100 times before, because in part it's being done in a thread intended to contain noise. It might even help with forum curation, by giving moderators a place to move such questions posted elsewhere.

Shall we give it a shot? Perhaps make this an experiment for a while? and if it doesn't work out, an admin should feel free to simply blow away the thread.
I need information on completely replacing the brake master cylinder in a 2002 CVT.., any help would be appreciated :) thanks from Seattle
 

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My 2001 cvt transmission made a moderate pop sound and lost all drive function(no unusual noises since).Finally tow dollyed it home.I have done some searching and it looks probable that the flywheel gear is stripped.I will continue gathering info on the situation and would appreciate any insight into the getting correct parts,, diagnosis and fix.
 

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trueherbsman:
Please include your location in your Profile, as ALL G1 Insighters have done.
 

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When to repair and when to part out?
2001 cvt 310,000 miles
Battery is dead,,engine seems pretty good no leaks cruises at 75 fine and pulls hills fair to good.
I replaced all fluids with honda oils about 4 years ago put about 10k on it since.
as posted above either the flywheel or belt in the cvt is toast.
Repair,part out or sell whole???
responses appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Wait for someone to part out a CVT? I think I've seen some trannys for sale recently. Assuming you do it yourself.
Fourth option: K24!
 
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