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I've been searching for the 'Bypass IMA" infor for first gen insight and not coming up with anything. Hybrid Engineering doesn't seem to have this info anymore on their website. Is there something I'm missing. Or maybe someone can tell me how long I can run on a charged 12v battery with a bad IMA battery?
 

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I've been searching for the 'Bypass IMA" infor for first gen insight and not coming up with anything. Hybrid Engineering doesn't seem to have this info anymore on their website. Is there something I'm missing.
I can't help with that part .. I can't replicate your search failure .. when I do various such searches I see hundereds of search hits under a few variations of search language.

Or maybe someone can tell me how long I can run on a charged 12v battery with a bad IMA battery?
Depends on 'how bad' the IMA battery is.

even with error codes , and even with hybrid functions disabled .. some people still see DCDC function working to charge the 12v .. you can confirm this with a simple 12v meter .. numerous places sell ones you can plug into cigaret lighter plug for cheap.

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With no DCDC converter working to charge the 12V battery .. you can go until the 12V is dead .. the more electrical loads you are running the short time / distance that will be .. I've known some people commute like this (alternate delete mod) for years charging the 12v at home each day.

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You can make the car forget it saw a problem with the IMA battery .. pull fuse or 12v for like ~30 seconds to clear the memory .. but as soon as the saw sees the IMA battery problem again it will again restrict use .. that could be 2 seconds or 2 months .. depending on the IMA battery issue .. this is mainly an option so someone can limp home or such.

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If the battery gets bad enough the car doesn't 'want' to use it .. you can do the DCDC enable mod .. ie cut that wire .. then the car can't tell the DCDC not to work .. so it does by default (usually).

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If the battery gets so bad the DCDC itself won't / can't use it .. you can use mudder's "How to completely remove your IMA Battery" mod .. nice compact and clean (no error codes).

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You can combine mudder's removal with Peter's MDM removal .. which takes out both the IMA motor's power electronics and the DCDC converter .. replaces the DCDC with a different smaller High Voltage IMA motor to 12VDC converter .. this opens up the most amount of rear space.
 

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If you can't figure it out I can pull my deck out next weekend and tell you what I did. I believe the bcm is disconnected and two wires are cut at the dc-dc. Green and white come to mind. DISCLAIMER: I AM UNSURE.
 

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I was wondering the same thing last year. I'm not sure where I found the information. But I ended up disconnecting connectors A & B from the BCM. They're the connectors on the back side of the BCM. Doing that allows the DC-DC converter to continue charging the 12v battery as long as your rpms don't exceed 4k. Once your rpms exceed 4k it will show the battery and e-brake lights for about a minute or so. Then, the lights will go out and the DC-DC converter will continue charging the 12v as normal. I believe it does that as a safety feature to prevent too much current from going into the 12v battery. Only downside I've seen to this "mod" is the check engine and IMA lights are always lit and will prevent you from passing or inspection/emissions if your state has them. I've drove about 15k miles with those two connectors disconnected with no issues. Hopefully this helps.
 
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