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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone,

I seem to be a new proud owner of a clean silver 2000 Honda insight 95k miles and found something strange that I couldn't find an answer too. I currently have the IMA light and trying to grid charge my car. The IMA battery cover off and found a fan control board before the fan to cool the battery's. I haven't seen this board in any videos or any pictures before.
Thoughts??? Is my fan controllable already? Is it a Mod?

Can I still tap into the fan to power the fan with this board here (I was just going to unscrew the two connection and be done)?

Side question: When I was taking off the cover to the IMA it wasn't only held in by 10mm bolts, it had 6 star bolts holding in the far left and right sides. Is this stock?

Now looking at the picture, I didn't notice the 3 wires run toward the front of the car from the controller.
I will have to investigate where it goes...


Thank you everyone, any wisdom is appreciated!

Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Electrical wiring Automotive battery Hood
Hardware programmer Circuit component Passive circuit component Automotive tire Electrical wiring
he fan when
 

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to KyleXC,

do you dare to bite the bullet and try the slow-deep-discharge-trick to the IMA pack with the light bulb method?
 

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I have that same board . It is mikes set up. There could be a charging harness installed already which hybrid revolt makes a charging cable plug up to the port. Look around for a black connector port on the right lower outside of the box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
First off, thank you everyone for your comments!! Any comments is appreciated!!

I do dare to bite the bullet and try the slow-deep-discharge-trick to the IMA pack with the light bulb method! Reason for thinking this, it seems like its a newer battery... Possibly well taken care of and after the person traded the car in it bounced between a couple dealership until a year later I find it and the IMA light is triggered. With some luck it just needs to be cycled and re-matched. That's the idea.

Did some looking around in the battery area and found where those wires ran too. They ran to another small board with a few wires running into the battery and the plug, talked about above. Pictures below.

Also the battery is made by a company called "Primearth EV battery Co. ltd." With this name of the battery pack I know it has been replaced after 2011. How do I know the year it was remanufactured/built by the sticker on the side? It was hard to see but on the side it had this:
EV-PH6R5H29C
10010-PHM-023
J202PAGH018C (BAR CODE)
Primearth EV battery Co. ltd.

I tried looking up Mike Dabrowski's charger sockets and fan boards and didn't find anything about purchasing one, how to setup, etc. Anyone have a link for info?

If I already have Mikes charging setup how do I use it? Is there a Special charger to use for it? Should I spend the money and go this route?

I ordered parts for a simple grid charger already and was going to wire it all up until I found these boards. Could I still do this and be safe?

PICTURES:

Other board I found. Mike Dabrowski's setup?
Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Automotive exterior Gas Auto part

Circuit component Hardware programmer Passive circuit component Electronic engineering Electrical wiring


These red wires running down into the battery.
Circuit component Electrical wiring Electronic component Cable Electronic engineering


One of the Gray wires runs here.
Vehicle Motor vehicle Hood Trunk Vehicle door


The other gray wire is next to the other board
Bicycle tire Hood Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle


Plug in:
Passive circuit component Circuit component Automotive tire Hardware programmer Electrical wiring


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Rim Automotive lighting Automotive exterior

Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive exterior Wood Material property


This is what you piggyback into for the battery supply with the simple grid charger. Untouched it seems like...
Office equipment Electrical wiring Automotive exterior Gas Auto part


Thanks everyone for the help!
 

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The front circuit board monitors the PTC sensors for overheated cells during the grid charging. With original IMA packs, the circuit would shut down the charger if one cell overheated. The PTC strips are no longer used by aftermarket battery builders, so the circuit is pretty much useless.

The cables going to the fan shroud and the front of the pack are temperature sensors to monitor overall heat buildup in the battery when charging, and to prevent charging when the intake temperature is too hot or too cold.

Unless you plan to buy the HybridRevolt variation of the Dabrowski charger, you can probably just remove the charging harness. Whatever charger you buy will have it's own harness.
 

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If I read correctly there is no oem honda IMA pack in your car?
I don't know about slow-deep-discharge results with non-honda IMA packs. Having deep discharged my honda pack countless times, I endorse the trick for the honda packs.
With non-honda packs be carefull, I don't know about peeps on this site who did this trick with non-honda packs.
If you have your hands on a second pack, or can get to one easily, you can try the deep-discharge with more faith. Proceed with caution...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hey everyone, again thank you for all the great comments.
I got my charging harness wired in (positive and negative lines to both the battery and fan). Battery is not OEM Honda battery. I didn't know those existed haha.
I turn on the battery to check the voltage of the battery and it's as dead as when the power switch was off. Weird. I thought It would have power...
I turn the discharger on and power on the battery with no power to light bulb discharging the battery. I did the light bulb first to make sure it is working properly and then I would start recharging.
When I got the car, the battery meeter in the car (SOC?) was completely full. I think I should have something even just sitting for 7 days.

So... Is my IMA battery really that dead?
1 thing to note is the 12v battery is out of the car. Does it need to be in while charging and discharging the IMA?
I am using a 30watt bulb currently and read I should use a 60watt bulb? Correct?
I also tried to get the IMA fan I spliced into to turn on, and didn't turn on with the IMA off. I stopped at this point.
All thoughts are welcome!
 

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the IMA fan runs of the 12V battery, when there is no 12V battery that fan will never run...
just joking...

when I was you, I would do the next:
  • Uninstall the battery from your car and find the positive and negative terminals. careful, use gloves.
  • Now measure the voltage between the terminals with a voltmeter. What voltage does it have?
  • When your pack reads somewhere between 100 and 200V you can start the light bulb method, 30 or 60W both ok. Let the light bulb run for 12hours.
  • When your pack reads somewhere below 100V then that is weird. Could be that pack is toast, but we can't be sure yet. Connect a 200...300 mA grid charger and let it grid charge for 1 hour.
  • Turn off and disconnect the grid charger, and wait 5 minutes
  • Now measure the voltage between the terminals with a voltmeter. What voltage does it have?
  • When your pack reads something below 100V the pack is toast
  • When your pack reads something above 100V it -might- still be healthy, charge it with the grid charger for 12hours.
When your pack is toast get yourself an original Honda NiMH pack that came with the car, form junkyard or used-IMA-packs-dealer or buy a third party (new) pack, depending on your budget.
  • When your pack has sufficient voltage, connect the grid charger and let it charge for 2 hours. Disconnect the grid charger and connect the light bulb again and let it burn for 5minutes.
  • When the light bulb doesn't burn, connect it to mains, does it burn now? no? get another light bulb. Also use a classic light bulb, one that gets too hot to touch and not a led bulb and/or check wiring until the bulb burns on the IMA pack. With the light bulb on,
  • When your pack reads something below 100V the pack is toast
  • When your pack reads something above 100V proceed to the next step
  • With the light bulb on, find the voltages for each stick and write them down. When one (or more sticks) are off by more than a volt than that stick is toast. One stick being off like that tells us the rest of pack might not be in good shape anymore.
Did you complete all previous steps properly, the pack -might- be still ok.
Ultimately, only the car can properly evaluate the pack for sufficient health, when it starts loading the pack. When one or more cells have degraded too far, the pack is still toast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
I am totally fine with pulling the IMA battery, but to just test the battery? Why go through the trouble of pulling the entire thing out when I can test with it installed in the car? Probably what your older self thought as well.

I've tried looking around my area Indianapolis area and none of the junkyards have insights or any hybrid cars. Have you noticed this? Where would I go other then Facebook market place?
Below is a picture of the IMA and I circled where I took voltage at of the battery and where I plugged into the fan at. I could just have wires flipped for fan.

Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Technology Auto part Gas


Thanks Sondair for the write up. Nice and simple.
 

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The terminals you encircled only get hot when ignition is on. There is a relais controlled by the IMA controller between the battery and the encircled terminals (called 'the contactor').
Could be, the IMA controller detected a problem with the battery so severe, it doesn't even activate the relais.

2 of your comments puzzles me:
1: 'I currently have the IMA light '
2: '1 thing to note is the 12v battery is out of the car. '

Can you explain how you still have dash lights while there is no 12V battery in your car?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ooohhh......
I'm sorry for the confusion, My IMA light was on when I bought the car. I parked it and pulled out the 12volt battery while I worked and tested the IMA battery.

The car isn't driving around at the moment, been doing a bunch of maintenance. I am currently replacing the motor mounts.

I also pulled the 12v battery to be load tested and it checks out and I haven't put it back in the car yet.

I will look up this so called 'the contactor' and see if I get voltage or not at that point. Hopefully I get a healthy 100+ volts...

I've seen people attach a volt meter to the postive and negative points I circled above and thought that was where I took a reading. The guy said he attached the meter to see if he needs to grid charge the car. Is this a good idea for the future?

Thanks Sondair!!!
 

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If i read correctly, you ordered a grid charger?
in the installation documentation of the grid charger you can find the so called 'permanent positive' and 'permanent negative' terminals of the IMA pack.
Could be, you need to take out the IMA pack to reach these points.
 

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In order to get any info or actions from the IMA you will have to have the 12V battery installed. IIRR
 
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