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So the previous owner used a Hybrid ReVolt Smart Grid Charger model HR-GC1? I look at some of the harnesses and none of them match the boards on my car.

A link: Hybrid ReVolt Smart Grid Charger [HR-GC1] - $799.99 : HybridReVolt: Hybrid Battery Repair

Thanks for the wisdom!
When HybridRevolt bought the rights to the Genesis charger from Mike, they made changes to harness, so the two won't look alike. First, HybridRevolt eliminated the front PC board, because few of the newer after market batteries even have a PTC circuit. If you examine the markings on that board, you will see that the input is from the battery PTC circuit. Made sense to HybridRevolt to eliminate the board. Second, HybridRevolt removed the charging fan control and just runs the fan all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Thank you everyone for all the help. Much appreciated.
I didn't order a grid charger (I should have), I built my own (pictures below). Seemed simple enough, I got a screen coming in the mail to read voltage for me. Just something simple to test the IMA battery is all I wanted for now.
Little back story.
Car is: 2000 Honda insight MT 95k miles
When I got the car from this run down dealership, they bought it from auction and looks like 2 other dealerships bought and re-auctioned the car until I bought it. It seems like a one owner car that got tossed around at the dealerships once this person traded it in. The car is basically stock, started right up, zipped through the gears with assist from IMA and also recharged the IMA. The SOS level stayed filled all the way until 5 minutes and it dropped some and then the IMA light came on. Another 10 minutes the IMA stopped charging and assisting. So I low balled him and I got the car. The 12v battery had a trickle feed plug which also gave me a good feeling. All the fluids were good, 12v battery is 2 years old. The car is all there. Broken windshield sucks but replaceable. It has all the charging stuff already wired in which was cool but that charger is expensive for what I got the car for. Little fade in the paint on the roof seemed normal.
At this point it seems like it was a well taken care of car that got mistreated finding a new home.

I will plug in the 12v battery when this rain stops and then check for voltage and maybe try the lightbulb test to see if I have power. If I have power, I will start charging the IMA.

Other questions:
Price of windshield look ok? I heard about pillar clips and gaskets that I would replace but wasn't sure if they would do that?
Water has been found on the passenger corner and the wheel well. Any ideas?

Grid charger:
Wood Circuit component Electricity Audio equipment Electrical wiring


Font Circuit component Electrical wiring Cable Electronic component


Grid charger wire harness:
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Hood Bicycle part


Circuit component Electrical wiring Electronic engineering Computer hardware Hardware programmer


Positive and Negative going to IMA.
Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Vehicle Cable Auto part



White Product Orange Line Red



Windshield Quote:
Product Font Rectangle Material property Screenshot


Water in trunk:
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Trunk Automotive exterior Gas
Automotive tire Wood Hood Automotive design Gas
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Jime that makes so much sense... I've been seeing the new ones instead of the old one I have!

Thanks!!
 

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Looks like you have two parallel grid charging harnesses, which in ok, an interesting idea.

Your diy grid charger is built with quality power supplies and has discharge capability, both which must be watched manually for proper shutoff. The Genesis/HybridRevolt setup works automatically and requires no manual watching for shutdown, but it costs as much as some cars;)

When you pay a windshield shop to replace the windshield, remove the overdoor garnishes yourself following these directions:

Windshield shops will invariably tell you they know how to remove the garnishes, but more often than not they wreck the attachment points and wind up "gluing" the garnishes back on. Many a garnish has blown off on the road because of this.
[/QUOTE]
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Correct, I do have those chargers in parallel to charge the IMA. I got the idea from another insight page.

Thank you for the windshield info, I will take those off before I get it replaced.

I will let you know how it goes tomorrow!
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
So with the 12v battery back in, I get 156.7 Volts for the IMA battery.

I went to discharge with the light bulb and nothing happens.

I'm hesitant to charge the battery if my little light bulb isn't turning on with that power level...

Thoughts?
 

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So, the multimeter says: 156.7V and the light bulb doesn't burn?
Does the bulb burn when you connect it to the grid?
You live in USA, your grid is 110V?
156V blows up the bulb fast i think: you need 2 bulbs in series, preferably 60W ones. (you understand it can't be led bulbs right?)
Putting 2 60W bulbs in series lets them consume 30W together (15W each), they will burn dimm then.
At 156V is bout 40W then, a perfect slow deep discharge load.
You can leave them burning overnight.
When done, disconnect the light bulb and disconnect the 12V battery for 1 minute. The car will now start with the 12V starter.
Now let the car recharge the IMA battery, that can take a while now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Yup in the US 110v.

Alright. At this point I think the light bulb mount is bad. Light bulb is good, after the switch I get 157 volts leading into the bulb mount. It should turn on... but nothing.

Maybe I fried the mount when I tried the first time? I will get 2 bulb mounts and wire them up and try again.

Would 2, 65watt bulbs be alright? Its hard to find bulbs that aren't LED. I found a 65watt bulb at a dollar store, I will keep looking for 60watt bulbs.

Sondair you are telling me to discharge first?!?! and then charge the IMA, with the car?!?!??
Just asking. From my small amount of research, people say to charge first with a grid charger until I reach a 172 ish number for several hours and then to discharge, then charge, dis charge, and charge for a final time.

Thanks for the great amount of help. I've been learning a lot!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
So i wired up the 2 new light fixtures and found a couple 60 watt bulbs. Everything checks out. I plug it into the car and go to discharge and nothing happens when I flip the power on the IMA. The battery's voltage didn't jump up....
Checked 10 minutes later with same result.

Nothing has changed from earlier. 12v battery is fine. Didn't leave anything open.

Any ideas or opinions?

Tableware Light Dishware Serveware Drinkware
 

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CAUTION: you are messing around with a DC voltage level which can easily kill you. The 110 AC likewise. Please find some rubber gloves before you do yourself serious harm:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
Yes, safety first. Always. Got gloves. Got two different meters and a electric pen to test with (battiers are fresh). Mechanical engineering background, I hate dealing with high voltage but with the correct steps in place it can be safe. I even got an extension for my meeter so I can stay as far away as I can...

Everything is soldered together, then liquid electric tape to cover, and then regular electrical tape just because.

The bulbs work correctly when tested. No burning of the bulbs once connected to the IMA. No voltage.

Bulb mount is just a $1.50 light fixture from Home Depot.

Thanks for the help everyone!
 

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hmmm,
ok, try this:
disconnect the bulbs from the ima pack, turn ignition on.
Do you have the 156V again?
no? disconnect your 12V battery for 1 minute, turn ignition on.
Do you have the 156V again?
yes?
Turn ignition off.
Connect one wire of the bulbs to 1 terminal.
With ignition on, let the second wire touch the 2nd terminal for 1 sec.
Do they light up 1 sec?
No? check voltage again. Is it 0V now?
Do your hear a clicking sound in the IMA battery area when you let it touch the 2nd terminal?
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Sondair your procedure was something like my first thoughts of the problem. Nice write up!

So I got to the car today and doing nothing the power is back up to 156.7v when I flip the switch for the IMA. Tried several times over testing a couple things and good as it should be. Weird.

I will get to lighting up the bulbs in the morning with some more light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
So I flipped on the IMA and got power this morning (156Volts). Got the bulbs wired up in series and tied into the positive with one side and touch the negative terminal with the other briefly. Again the bulbs did nothing. Tried several times, moving positive and negative around. Voltage of the IMA stayed constant.

I didn't check for continuity through the light bulbs I was testing with, buts its three wires (seems unlikely). I will check later today.

Thank you so much for the help.
 

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You don't feel at ease with high voltage, thats normal.
Take your time to figure things out, yes.
Testing continuity is wise.
What's the brand of your multimeter?
Can you take a pic of it, and the bulbs fixture.
Can you take a pic of the 3 wires you talk about.
Tell me what each one is for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I'm sorry. I messed up the wiring for the lights haha. Got them wired up correctly now and just tested it on the car and got light using the IMA.

Multimeter is a Craftsman, model: 82140

The three wires: 1st wire is the positive wire from IMA going to the first light fixture. 2nd wire/wires go to next light bulb from the first bulb. 3rd wire is the negative wire running from the last bulb back to the IMA negative terminal.

The bulb fixtures are just the bulbs from the picture above of my charger (dumb charger). I just took it off of my charger I made to test with.

I will wire the bulbs back to my wire harness and Check the fan on the IMA to make sure that is working as normal.

Hopefully I will start discharging this next morning so I can keep an eye on it all day while it drains.
When should i stop discharging?
Once it's drained I will start the car up and let the car do the work? I could just use my charger I built already?
Don't know any of the real pros and cons of doing this.

Thanks again immensely!
 

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You replacing motor mounts so the car can't drive now, true?

You told when you bought the car, when you drove home the ima system was working properly for the first part of the trip and during trip is stopped working.
Humm, yes that's is little bit weird, to be honest. I'm not sure how that can occur. Depending on how much time you have on your hands you can start with discharging to 1V per cell. Your pack has 120 cells if i guess right. Discharge with the light bulbs to 120V. Do the 3 steps below. When that doesn't solve the IMA issue goto 0,9V per cell or 108V. Do the 3 steps below, no solve? goto 0,5V (60V). Do the 3 steps below, still no solve, goto 0,1V (12V). No solve? You need to replace the faulthy stick or replace the pack.

Step 1: When the ICE can run again, disconnect the 12V battery for 1 minute(*) and start the ICE.
Within 10 seconds does the IMA light come on?
Yes -> start the light bulb discharge method
No -> goto next step

Step 2: The soc gage shows empty and the IMA system should now start charging the IMA pack until the soc gage goes to full. Depending on the current soc of the pack this takes between 1 to 20 minutes.
During charging does the IMA light come on?
Yes -> start the light bulb discharge method
No -> goto next step

Step 3: Start driving the car.
During acceleration and/or breaking does the IMA light come on?
Yes -> start the light bulb discharge method
No -> problem fixed

Step 4: Use the car, it has no IMA light, but
  • Does it have those annoying negative recals every month/week/day/hour/5minutes?
  • Is the pack exhausted quickly during larger accelerations?
  • Did you car's mileage dropped unexplainably?
Yes -> start the light bulb discharge method
No -> problem fixed

*Disconnecting the 12V battery for 1 minute is lengthly. Could be, 10 seconds is enough too. It's a cheap way for clearing the cars error-code(s). You can also use a clear OBD errors tool for this.

For you to go through all these steps will take some time.
Good luck, keep us posted.
 

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The thread title suggest you suspect a problem with the IMA pack cooling fan, hehe. Could be the problem comes from there, you think it doesn't run?
In my car, it doesn't run either but it starts running when my pack gets over 40C and then keeps running until it went down to 35C. Could be, your pack gets over 40C and fan still doesn't run and IMA system stops using the IMA pack, because it got too hot. There must be an IMA light on then to start with.

Previous owner did some stuff with the fan, you can try to put the IMA fan wiring back to stock, until the IMA light stays off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 · (Edited)
Originally I had no idea what was attached to the IMA Battery and where this thread started. From what I've read and what people have said, it's junk. I will mess around with it if need be but hopefully it runs normal and see what the fan does after the discharge.

First time driving the car at 5 minutes the IMA came. I believe I lost charging and assets 10 minutes later.

Motor mounts will be done today! That lower one was probably the hardest thing on the car to work on, other then the IMA.

What is "ICE"? Gas/Petrol engine?

Thanks for the write up Sondair. That was exactly what I needed. I got time, I got another car. I will take it a step at a time and keep ya updated ☺
Thanks again!
 
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