[klepper]

I have a 102K Mile 2006 with AC, I noticed my car started leaking oil a bit, from the passenger side. I was watching it and I then went on a long trip and it kept leaking. I drove a few hours in the last leg in the rain and in the morning when I moved my car, I saw this:

Yikes -eh? that’s just about the full length of my car. It was leaking from the engine area and dripped down the car and when I stopped my freeway speeds, it could then drop down straight.

So I cleaned it off the best I could and drove it home from the car wash and took these pics, hoping that I could see the source of the leak:

Here are a pile of other pics.

There are good shots inside the Camshaft pully, it seems like there is oil coming out from inside there, unless it’s just dripping down into that area, and then being flung out.

So have I successfully troubleshoot this? Or am I way off?

So, in this pic:

I need a need #12 - OIL SEAL - (13623PHM000) + # 15 - O-RING (27.9X1.8) - (91301PHM003) to be safe?

Parts - ENGINE/PISTON - CRANKSHAFT FOR 2006 HONDA INSIGHT

Also, while it’s all off, I might as well replace that belt too right? (38920PHM505) It’s looking pretty ratty.

Also on my last leg, the car bucked and gave me a .

P2646 check engine code - VTEC Oil Pressure Switch Circuit Low Voltage

I think this may be unrelated. I thought it might be because I just had low oil pressure (because it was leaking out). But it was certainly leaking before this code. I guess I’ll replace that too. It’s cheap.

Any and all thoughts, advice, threats, flames, appreciated.

 

[[email protected]]

Ok, so if the oil level got too low, it could trigger your VTEC code. I'd check that first, but know that that "spool valve" is something that seems to go out on these cars.

Looks like your timing chain tensioner is leaking a little, but I don't think it looks like the primary source. I just did the gaskets on mine. Straight forward job. Others will hopefully chime in with the biggest offender!

 

[gilbertguy]

The fact that you can see oil being flung out from the harmonic balancer pulley holes is the biggest indicator to me. Looks like you are on the right path. I also agree, there isn't much oil in these motors so if the leak was that bad it might have been oil starved, pull the dip stick and see if you can even see any on it.

 

[kermit]

Same oil leak here. Search "front engine seal" or "crankshaft pulley seal". You will find at least 1 thread w/pictures
I am in the process of replacing the above mentioned seal.
-I have removed the pulley. The hardest part is removing the pulley bolt. You'll need a pulley holder, it cost more than the seal.
It takes 120-140? ft/lbs to remove the bolt. Use the longest cheater bar you can on your 1/2'' drive
socket. I used a universal puller holder. Rested the end on a jack stand to the left of the pulley.
-I've removed seal. - - - - - I have a seal puller but a small bladed screwdriver will work. Pry out from the middle of the seal.
Make sure you don't score the edges of the seal channel with the screwdriver.
-I'm waiting for the parts! - Seal $19, belt $26, idle pulley $31. I found here how to replace the idle pulley bearing for $7 after
ordering the whole idle pulley.

I'm 90% sure this will solve our leaks.

 

[atikovi]

The hardest part is removing the pulley bolt.

If there is enough room an impact gun will get it off in seconds.

 

[klepper]

Thanks guys, I will post pics and stuff as soon as I get the parts, etc.

 

[larryd5]

Seal

If there is enough room an impact gun will get it off in seconds.

Take off the right front wheel and there is an access hole in the plastic inner fender well that gives direct access to the pulley bolt. Just need a long extension. At least a 12 inch extension is needed.
Larry

 

[Buis02]

Had the same issue as well. It was the seals. I ended up doing the front and rear seal and called it a day. Better to get it done at the same time.

 

[dnmun]

take care when removing seals with a screwdriver

i have found the most common oil leakage paths i have found on motors where O rings were replaced was due to the screwdriver jammed under the O ring to remove it and cutting a grove into the aluminum behind the O ring which creates a leakage path forever after.

 

[SomeDude]

Impact

If there is enough room an impact gun will get it off in seconds.

I've heard that using an impact on the crankshaft pulley may crack the crankshaft. I would look up this potential issue before using an impact. If you can do it with a 1/2" breaker bar that would be the safer route.

 

[gilbertguy]

I've never heard of an impact gun cracking a crank shaft, all of the professional shops use the air guns to break those bolts loose.

 

[ackattacker]

Never heard of anybody damaging a crankshaft with an impact gun for removal, especially a consumer grade one. Don't use it for installation because you can bugger the threads with overtorque. It's essentially the perfect tool for the job and almost reason enough to buy one. The newer battery powered ones are very convenient and you'll find yourself using it all over if you do much car repair. Lug nuts, brake bolts, suspension bits. A lot less busted knuckles and a lot less rounded off fasteners.

BTW the ******* way to bust loose a crankshaft bolt is to brace a breaker bar against the ground and bump the 12V starter with the coils disconnected. Not recommending this.

 

[klepper]

Just to let you know, I did replace the parts

13623-PHM-000 COLLAR, OIL SEAL
91301-PHM-003 O-RING (27.9X1.8)

and it did NOT fix it. I replaced the metal ring (not needed, it was perfect) and the rubber washing in it (which looked perfect too).

Any other ideas?

 

[biododge1]

did you verify its not the pan gasket (the u shaped one)? If it is, i recommend ordering both of them and the small oil filter feed o-ring that is pressed on the top lip of the pan as well.

 

[klepper]

I am thinking it is this #26? for sure.

91214-PHM-013 - Ref No.: 26 - Oil Seal (65X88X10)

The seal says on it "NOK AH2358E" which google tells me is "Engine Timing Cover Seal, Engine Oil Pump Seal"

I'll let you know.

 

[biododge1]

Item 26 is the rear main seal. Unless your going to pull the motor, its there for life lol. The seals i was talking about are 9, 10, 27.

 

[klepper]

Ah, so it's this: GENUINE OEM HONDA 91212-PWA-003 - OIL SEAL (40X55X7) (NOK) that I want.

according to this page:

AH2358E,NOK AH2358E; Engine Timing Cover Seal, Engine Oil Pump Seal

AH2358E which is stamped on it, interchanges with this: 91212-PWA-003

good eye, thanks!

 

[klepper]

Done finished!

ZERO OIL LEAKS. So it was a long ordeal, it turned out that I did NOT need to replace those other seals.

This seal was the culprit:

GENUINE OEM HONDA 91212-PWA-003 - OIL SEAL (40X55X7) (NOK)

AH2358E,NOK AH2358E; Engine Timing Cover Seal, Engine Oil Pump Seal

AH2358E which is stamped on it, interchanges with this: 91212-PWA-003

and all I needed besides that "Honda/Acura Crank Pulley Removal Tool 50mm" that cost me $25 was a little seal puller hook.

I also needed lots of 1/2" tools and extensions because that bolt is a complete zotch to remove. Like 6 foot cheater bar was needed for me.

I'd replace the belt while you are at it. It was a 2 person job for me to get that belt back on.

If anyone else has oil leaking from this area, I'd go straight for the black seal in the pic. Don't even bother with the other stuff that is too complicated to remove and put back and it's probably not it. It cost me less than $10 from the local profit center, and I'm sure you can get it for $6 online or $10 from ebay shipped. Thanks everyone heaps.

 

[gilbertguy]

Nice, did you have to remove the timing chain pulley or just the big bolt in the end of the crank?

 

[klepper]

Just the bolt (the zotch) and the camshaft pully sides right off. (easy). Stab the old seal, pull it out, lube the new seal with a finger dipped in oil, and then gently tap the new seal in evenly. I used the 1 gallon oil cap that fit over it perfectly.

Nice, did you have to remove the timing chain pulley or just the big bolt in the end of the crank?