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Discussion Starter #1
So frustrated with all the dead links here. Trying to remember how to go gas-only (which I've done before) but I can't remember which silver box is which!

All the search results are either dead links or the pics are gone.


So which silver box is the BCM and which one is the MCM? They have different plugs and That's probably the easiest way to identify.


I'll come back and update this thread with new pics hosted on imgur so they hopefully won't go dead......
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Awesome, thanks!


I'll put up some newer pics later tonight, to help the next generation of folks buying Insights with completely dead IMA batteries!
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Best thing you can do is get a 1/4" impact driver. Makes short work of all those bolts...
https://i.imgur.com/fplfsQR.mp4


Take the red thingy off, flip the breaker to “off” and replace the red thingy. Otherwise you’ll be working around high voltage DC which is no joke!
https://i.imgur.com/wrMD61H.mp4


There are three 10mm bolts that are shorter than the rest. They are in the spare tire well here.
https://i.imgur.com/LjqKERr.mp4


Here is the gubbins. Get to removing stuff. The MCM is at the top right. Its the silver rectangle under the foam stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Be careful with these. Only pull straight up. They do a lot to support the lid and quiet the rattles.



Don’t touch it like I did ( I had already shorted them) but short these two terminals together to drain any capacitors that may be holding on to some voltage.
https://i.imgur.com/mv9XPMj.mp4


After getting the pack out, this is what you need from the battery. Its the entire endplate that holds the breaker switch.



Another view.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
And here it is. Just pull the MCM off the battery case (4 10mm bolts) and plug it back up. Also plug in the battery endplate and you are now good to go!



The whole shebang. Put those two big orange cables back, plus anything else you can plug in. Good Luck and I hope you don’t lose any fingers!
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
There she is. All bypassed and ready to go. This is not meant to be an exhaustive how-to. It's just pointing out the major parts that need to be messed with. I'm simply reposting these images for newcomers since all the old links and pics seem to be broken or missing.

ALSO! Notice I did not remove the Tom Mix bar! When I bought my car the IMA battery was not bolted down. I used the rear bolts only, which makes it so much easier to R&R the battery. You have to decide for yourself if you want to go this route because in a crash it's really dangerous to have that big thing flying around the car with you.

You'll notice that the car starts instantly now off the 12V starter. No waiting! Also, it could be placebo, but I think the engine revs a little easier and has a bit more torque now that the battery is gone. Maybe there's some low-level battery maintenance going on that always puts a drag on the gas engine as long as the IMA battery is in the car. It sure seems easier to drive anyway.


Sorry about the video links. It seems there's no way to embed those little clips here. If there is, somebody enlighten me!
 

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There she is. All bypassed and ready to go. This is not meant to be an exhaustive how-to. It's just pointing out the major parts that need to be messed with. I'm simply reposting these images for newcomers since all the old links and pics seem to be broken or missing.

ALSO! Notice I did not remove the Tom Mix bar! When I bought my car the IMA battery was not bolted down. I used the rear bolts only, which makes it so much easier to R&R the battery. You have to decide for yourself if you want to go this route because in a crash it's really dangerous to have that big thing flying around the car with you.

You'll notice that the car starts instantly now off the 12V starter. No waiting! Also, it could be placebo, but I think the engine revs a little easier and has a bit more torque now that the battery is gone. Maybe there's some low-level battery maintenance going on that always puts a drag on the gas engine as long as the IMA battery is in the car. It sure seems easier to drive anyway.


Sorry about the video links. It seems there's no way to embed those little clips here. If there is, somebody enlighten me!
Thats great bro..!!
just posted a questions about this..
and found your post.:)
 

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I flipped the big switch off this morning due to 12V system warning driving to office (scary). With the switch off, the 12V is okay again. I am going to hold on removing the pack but I will disconnect the BCM so I can get instant 12V start and remove any remaining load on the system. I'd like to do the stick swap myself so that I can avoid the core charge and return shipping.
 

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There she is. All bypassed and ready to go. This is not meant to be an exhaustive how-to. It's just pointing out the major parts that need to be messed with. I'm simply reposting these images for newcomers since all the old links and pics seem to be broken or missing.

ALSO! Notice I did not remove the Tom Mix bar! When I bought my car the IMA battery was not bolted down. I used the rear bolts only, which makes it so much easier to R&R the battery. You have to decide for yourself if you want to go this route because in a crash it's really dangerous to have that big thing flying around the car with you.

You'll notice that the car starts instantly now off the 12V starter. No waiting! Also, it could be placebo, but I think the engine revs a little easier and has a bit more torque now that the battery is gone. Maybe there's some low-level battery maintenance going on that always puts a drag on the gas engine as long as the IMA battery is in the car. It sure seems easier to drive anyway.


Sorry about the video links. It seems there's no way to embed those little clips here. If there is, somebody enlighten me!
Hi... Very Good..!!

so to recap...... with out taking the bat pack out......

just disconnect the BCM ( left hand side module) and now its gas only....


also .... what is charging and maintaining the 12v .???
 

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also .... what is charging and maintaining the 12v .???
The DC-DC converter is still getting power from the IMA motor/generator and putting out the needed 12-14.1V that is charging the 12V battery.

The problem I ran into with this second failed pack is the cells became such a draw on the high voltage that they pulled the DC-DC converter offline (or at least appeared to reduce its output below the normal range). I still need to disconnect the BCM in order to completely disable the IMA system. Unfortunately I am not going to be home until tomorrow and that is where all my tools are. I always have a 10mm socket wrench with me but I do not have a T20 (or is T25) Torx bit with me to remove the three screws I put back into the IMA compartment cover. Otherwise I would take five minutes and do it here at the office.
 

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Please use a T30, so you don’t strip out the bolt heads.

Scott
 

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Please use a T30, so you don’t strip out the bolt heads.

Scott
I have the correct size I just could not remember the "T" number. Used it to remove all six screws. I only put a few bolts back in as I knew I would be going in and out of that compartment. Just not sure why I decided to put in some of the Torx screws when I only carry a 10mm with me (which I was carrying primarily to get at the master IMA switch).
 

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I will have owned the car 20 years as of April 28th and I am still learning new things about it here :)

Six years ago I was mostly clueless into the detailed operations going in the IMA compartment when my previous Honda installed pack failed. If I had a grid charger back then I might have eked out an additional year or so from it before taking the plunge to completely replace it. In which case the battery issues I am seeing now would have been delayed another year. Now at least with BCM and pack disconnected, I have seven months to sort things out before I have to pass the yearly New York State inspection (it had been June but inspections were suspended in 2020 due to COVID only resuming in November). My five-year-old 12V battery failed in February so I have now have a new one which will (hopefully) be reliable.
 
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