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Just replaced my idler tension pulley wheel tonight. About 60 minutes all told from jacking up the car to putting it back down and cleaning up. I inspected the old bearing out of the car, and it was trashed... no wonder it was howling and whining. It felt "dry and gritty" spinning it by hand.

Got the nylon bearing from Autozone for about $57. Came with some extra bolts and spacers I did not need to use. Just reused the original bearing races and washer/nut that came on the original Insight idler pulley wheel.

You MUST get at it from below, and it's a bit tight. You will need:
10mm to remove aero panels
12mm wrench to remove the nut on the bearing wheel (had to smack mine with a hammer to get it loosened). Do this first before loosening the belt adjuster.
8mm socket to loosen the tensioner nut (you must crank the bolt clock-wise to loosen the bearing wheel... counter-intuitive)
Once you loosen the belt, you can continue to remove the nut holding all the washers and bearing races on the old idler pulley. Be ready to catch them as they all fall out once you remove the nut. Even better, remove it as a unit, so you can see the relationship of the front and back parts to re-assemble correctly.
Replace the old parts as needed on the new bearing (doesn't matter which is front or back...it's identical on the new wheel).

Replace the bearing on the threaded rod, making sure the adjuster bolt "flange" is properly mounted in the groove, so it can turn properly to move the bearing out to tighten the belt.

The new bearing has about 1mm of clearance to the bracket, so if it rubs, something is wrong, and you don't have the mounting hardware on the back of the bearing.

Before tightening, everything up, put the belt back on, making sure the proper "serpentine" pathway is taken (belt is on the rear aspect of the bearing). I had to line up the crank, A/C clutch and bearing, and half get the belt on the upper water pump wheel...and then crank the water pump by hand to slowly walk the belt onto the grooves. Make sure the car is in neutral, so you don't fight the transmission, or move the car while on a jack-stand. I suppose I could have loosened the bearing a great deal, but there is so little room to turn the adjuster bolt, this was easier for me.

Once tightened appropriately (about 5mm of belt play), then tighten down the bearing nut to 22-lb-ft.

Start the car briefly to make sure the belt stays on the tracks, with no rubbing. Check the belt play again to ensure it stayed tight.

When satisfied, bolt on the aero pans, drive away and enjoy the great "sound of silence" once again.

Cheers!

PS: Replacement serpentine belts are $12 to $18 at Autozone.
 

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What is the top pulley that you see from the top when you first pop the hood? I think it's the water pump pulley, but if I'm wrong I hope anyone can chime in.

I have been experiencing this same whizzing, whirling, crazy sounds coming from right up front until the cars gets warmed up. In this cold winter we have had its been really noisy in the past month. I have driven my car for about 20k miles. Odometer is currently at 120,880 miles.
Located in NE Indiana if anyone nearby wants to give their 2 cents in person.
Is Autozone still a decent place to pick up for around the $50-60 mark?

Thanks for all the previous great responses, to help me have some idea of what I need to tackle.
 

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Yes, the top-most wheel on the serpentine belt pathway is the waterpump pulley. If you have A/C, that's located near the bottom, I believe (trying to recall from memory...)

For purposes of changing out the idler pulley wheel... it doesn't matter. I think with 120K on your odometer, it is most likely the idler pulley. Just get a new one, and be good for another 100K+ and be done with it...

You might find one online at Majestic Honda or at RockAuto... I've had luck buying parts online there. I went to Autozone, as I didn't want to be stranded if it had a catastrophic failure within a few days of getting really loud....
 

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Well, I had this crazy whirling sounds mysteriously coming from the front area of my car a few weeks ago. I decided to search here to try and figure out what was the problem without getting my hands or clothes dirty.

So I found myself scratching my head when everyone kept referring to certain numbers in the poor parts diagram. I had my camera handy while taking stuff apart, and decided I should snap a few pics, and add some editing.

Here are 2 shots with the wheel removed and the inner splash shield to get to the pulleys.





The Water Pump pulley is clearly visible from above, but the rest are not to easy to see. So while I was trying to determine where my noise was coming from, I did not know which pulley was which. Now the novice DIYer can have a little more knowledge.

This repair was super easy.
If I had planned a little ahead of time, I would have ordered everything from RockAuto.com instead of getting the only available pulley in town from Advance Auto and the only available belt at O'Reillys.
O'Reillys = Serpentine belt: Gates #K050440 - $18.99
Advance Auto = Idler Pulley: Dayco #89087 - $56.99

RockAuto: Pulley: $34.99 and Belt: $7.23 (clearance)

Hope everyone has good luck with this repair. Followed post 21, and it helped a lot.
 

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Yeah, that bearing was totally seized up too! I have replaced a few belts in my time, and have always had to ask if they were ready for replacement. This one, I knew I shouldn't even drive anymore unless I was begging to be stranded somewhere while we received 11" of snow!
 

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Yeah, I think all of the Insights are reaching the age where the bearings are seizing up. I just had mine seize up couple of weeks ago on my way home from dinner.

See my other thread with video showing the difference in engine noise before and after replacing the belt and bearing.

Another bonus, my MPG went back up. Had no idea the bad bearing was sucking away so much power from the engine.

David
 

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I got Timken 203FF for $5 at autozone, hammered out the old bearing, and pushed the new one in carefully using large sockets.
Awesome news!, my idler bearing was starting to chirp and that it a super good fix! Thanks!
 

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What did you use to hammer out the bearing. I have my pulley off but can't seem to get the bearing to hammer out. Is this one of those bearings that should pop out race and all as one unit? Would like to get the bearing out before I head to Autozone. Thanks for this thread. This is how I found out that mine was bad too. Thought it was ac compressor clutch bearing but read this thread and took off my idler pulley. It is definitely shot!! Thanks for any advice on getting the bearing hammered out. Maybe I can have my car back on the road this weekend.
 

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For anyone who doesn't have an Autozone nearby, Advance Auto has a 203FF for $6.29 plus tax. I ended up going that route. Thanks so much for the info guys!! Saved me a good bit of money and took less than an hour. I love this site!!!!
 

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If the Timkin 203FF bearing is not available, their guide, the Timken bearing exchange guide lists a concordance of other part numbers of other manufacturers etc. :

62032RSR ***
62032RS INA
62032NS NACHI
62032RS SKF
62032GS SKF
62032RSJ SKF
62032RSJEM SKF

??Some SKF bearings have marginally different specs amongst bearings of the same dimensions; is there a grade of bearing that's best be selected among the choices deemed a match to the Timken 203FF ?
 

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Thanks to all the info and advice I replaced my bearing today, took less than 30 min. Autozone had the bearing in stock $9.95.

I used an appropriate sized socket and a small sledge hammer to get the old bearing out and install the new. Have to be careful not to damage anything with this me method but I have used it before many times. I set the pulley on a piece of 2 x 6 wood so as not to damage the pulley itself.

Great repair!
 

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Great info. Of course, I just bought a new Honda one for the 464,000 mile car. :roll:

Time to do some bearing research...
 

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Thanks to the contributions on this thread I was able to repair my bearing.. I had the whirring sound from the area of the water pump which made me initially think it was the pump.. checked the forum and all signs said the bearing..

I used part # 6203-2rsj from napa for about $13 which is just the bearing and replaced my belt with napa part # 25-050440 for $18.

I'll make a contribution on how I hammered out the bearing.

I am a novice mechanic with minimal experience and have a broken pinkie finger and this took me just over an hour to do with basic tools and following the directions in this post.. so heres how i dealt with the bearing

first placed the pulley on the floor with the beveled end facing down and used a 16mm socket(may vary depending on your toolset) which fit perfectly around the outer ring of the bearing and kept hitting it until it was flush with the ground.. it took alot of hits just be patient..

once it was flush on the ground I placed the pulley on top of 2 paint cans to have space to hammer it the rest of the way out.

once removed I cleaned the pulley and washers and parts with brake cleaner and a rag since it accumulated a lot of debris.

next i put the new bearing in by using the same 16mm socket until it became flush with the bevel of the pulley.. at this point i used the old bearing which i stacked on top of the new bearing and put the socket on top of that in order to hammer the bearing completely in..

use caution.. at the point when my new bearing was set, the old bearing was just barely set into the pulley as well, but thankfully it came out with a gentle pry with my screwdriver
 

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Just finished doing this job on my Insight and wanted to say thanks for the info. A few extra items that hopefully help out others in the future.

1: If you have A/C it does get in the way of working from underneath. It's not bad, but it just means that much less space to work with. I found I needed a deep 8mm socket (1/4" drive) and a ratchet with very fine teeth to turn the adjusting bolt. I also had to hold the lower rad hose out of the way.

2: A 19mm socket on the crank pulley (1/2" drive) will turn everything and help you walk the new belt on. Make sure you turn in the right direction (clockwise in my case). I chose to walk the belt on from underneath onto the crank so I dropped it from the top of the engine bay around the water pump, then wrapped it around the idler and A/C compressor

3: If you drive in a snowy area and/or don't have splash shields underneath, the nut holding the idler on as well as the adjusting hardware will probably be a bit rusty. Feel free to spray with WD40 from the front and back before you start the job and It's a good idea to take it all apart and go at it with some more WD40 and a wire brush before re-attaching it all. Make sure all the threads engage with each other smoothly.

4: Always double-tighten things. I got the nut on the front of the pulley tight, went for a test drive, and when I came back to re-tighten the belt the nut was just about hand-tight. Had I left it, I'm sure it would have worked it's way off eventually.

That should be about it. Feel free to ask any questions you may have and I will be glad to help answer them.
 

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Belt tensioner pulley bearing

When I had an engine noise I thought water pump or tensioner pulley bearing. Of course it was the pulley bearing (part number 203FF at most auto parts stores). The old one was extremely difficult to turn by hand and one seal was visibly damaged.

After reading up on the MasterPro brand vs. National brand offered at my local auto parts stores I opted for the more expensive brand: National... $7 vs. $3. Money well spent since my time is so valuable and I want to keep my Insight running for as many miles as possible.

Hammered the old bearing out, cleaned pulley, and hammered the new bearing in following some tips and tricks from this forum. All is good again.
 
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