All PTC strips are 0V.Good video. It doesn't hurt to have a spare junction board around, but I wouldn't drop $100 on parts until you know what the problem is. Additionally, forum members will know the best ways to get parts, and at a good price.
It seems like the junction board may(?) be okay. As you said in the video, the next step is testing with a volt meter. Reassemble the battery with the breaker on, and hook the negative lead to the negative battery terminal. Then you want to test the following points for voltage, and I've put the expected voltage beside it.
As far as codes are concerned, the 59 blink code refers to P1444, High voltage short circuit, there is no 59 subcode for P1449. Perhaps the P1444 was successfully cleared by your scan tool. The service manual, posted in a sticky thread on the troubleshooting subforum, has instructions on troubleshooting this code.
- PTC strip, both ends, 0V
- Positive terminal on top of junction board, 0V (this is because there's a contactor (relay) that doesn't enable the battery until the car ignition is on)
- Either breaker terminal (with it flipped on), 86-100V
- Positive battery terminal (bottom left of junction board), 144-168V
- Ground lug coming off of capacitors, 0V
- Each thermistor wire, 0V
Unrelated to the big shorting issues, your stick testing cycle is probably not aggressive enough to have found all of the issues in your pack. The biggest factor in stick testing is probably discharge current. It looks like you tested at 5A. My first tests were at 10A and that wasn't enough. I'd recommend 25-30A.
Positive terminal 0V.
Both breaker terminals measure 96.3 V.
Positive battery terminal 161.1V.
Ground lug 0V. When measuring this, it occasionally starts at .01V before quickly moving to 0V. Doubt that means anything, but there it is.
Thermistor wires: Here we go. I measured the voltage of the wires inside the harness. All of the wire pairs measured 0V except the two red wires from the front plate which both measure 2.5V. Is there something here? Let me know.