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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I noticed my driver side window was slow, I lubed the rubber channels with spray lithium grease and it sped up a lot. So I proceeded to raise and lower the window repeatedly, maybe half a dozen times in succession, to spread the grease around. And then it died (in up position).

When I hit the switch I hear a faint click and I see current go negative on the OBDIIC&C - but the window doesn't move.

This is the extent of my research thus far. I'm hoping someone might point me in the right direction as to my next steps?

I was thinking maybe I blew a fuse, but then, I see current on the OBDIIC&C, so I was thinking that must mean the circuit is intact, and maybe 'something' 'burned out' in the motor? No real clue...

edit:
OK, I expanded my research to include looking at the wiring schematic and then checking underdash fuses 6 and 10. They're both good.

Also, maybe it will help to note that the failure occurred just after the window reached the closed position, in the sense that, the window closed, and then the next time I tried to open it, a second later, it would not.

I'm thinking that once the window reaches the closed position there's a very brief moment when the electrical load increases a lot - maybe until 'the sensor' detects it and decides 'window is closed'?? I'm pretty sure it works that way for the auto-down functionality. But in any event, maybe there's no 'closed sensor', yet when you try to close an already closed window the electrical load is highest; normally you'd just let go of the switch...

Point is, maybe there's some electronic component that's more likely than others to have failed during that brief extra-load period?
 

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There is a post that talks about the extra sensor your talking about. Mudder has a 3 d part that fixes the light pot in the switch . Am having same issue with the heat in Maryland i think the window been sticking. In the morning it seems to work again. Also theres a post that talks about the ignition switch resetting the key helped him. Theres brushes in the motor regulator that wear out too that people talk about on other post.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
^ You're a master of the cypher...

I'm thinking it's probably the 'sensor' thing, seems like it can only be that or the motor itself. But, when I flick the switch it feels the same as what I recall the 'auto-down' mechanism feels like - when it hits the stop. So regardless of which it is, I'll be taking the door apart some time soon, removing the motor, etc...

The idea is that, the 'sensor' works for auto-down - I'd guess it detects the extra current/load when the window hits bottom and then disables power to the window. If the sensor itself 'blows' or whatever, then perhaps it is in a permanent 'disabled power mode', so the window won't work in any capacity, up or down.

Frankly, I wish the car had manual windows. That whole window circuit is just overkill. Who needs it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm looking a bit more at the power window wiring diagram/schematic. I'm wondering: the two wires going into the door and to the "detect circuit" (what I've been calling the "sensor") are accessible at at least two places before entering the door, at C404 and C407. C404 is a light blue 24 pin connector under the dash/steering column area, while C407 is a 16 pin grey above the fuse box.

I'm wondering what the likely or possible bypass for the "detect circuit" might be if I access those two wires at either of the two upstream connectors, so I don't have to take my door apart.

Is it likely that the "detect circuit" is open when the window is powered normally and closes when it 'senses' the extra load when the window hits bottom? Or vice versa? Or maybe neither?

Seems like I should be able to pull those pins out of the connector and leave them open or short them and one or the other would bypass the sensor and make the window work... Anyone know which is likely, if either?
 

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I appreciate the response and possible explanation, I would be curious too if just removing or cutting the wire would bypass the sensor. What’s the worse could happen. The steering wheel location would make some sense since there seems to be a reset of the sensor sometimes after the ignition is turned off and car sits for period. Weather been super hot ,seems to working in the morning than later in the day after the heat it stops.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
^ 'It' didn't work... Basically, I severed the connection between the 'sensor' and the "power window control unit" and it still didn't work.

At first with circuit fully intact I measured the resistance at C404 between the blue and lt green wires, the wires that go to the C407 connector above fuse box and on to the motor/sensor on the downstream side, and back up to the 'control unit' on the other side. I measured very little to no resistance - so I figured the 'sensor' in its currently defunct state appeared to be shorted. C404 is bundled with another connector and it was hard to get it all apart - so I moved to the grey C407 connector instead. It's easy to pull the male side of the connector out of the female side and access the pins.

I then pulled those pins out. I measured resistance at the C404 connector wires again and it was like 48k ohms. So I think that says the resistance through the 'control unit' is 48k ohms...

I tried the window but it didn't work...

So... Not sure what to think. Seems like it's possible the control unit is looking for a specific type of signal that's neither open nor grounded... Or maybe I'm barking up the wrong tree entirely.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
...there seems to be a reset of the sensor sometimes after the ignition is turned off and car sits for a period. Weather has been super hot, window seems to work in the morning then later in the day, after the heat, it stops.
Found this statement that might be relevant to your problem, maybe mine in some sense, too:

"There is a thermal switch in the motor that opens when the motor is driven against full up or full down for very long. It takes a minute for it to cool and close after power is removed so the window can work again."

So this guys says the 'sensor' (?) is a thermal switch, normally closed, open when hot... You're talking about your windows not working when it's hot - maybe it's related to this "thermal switch"...

As far as my problems go, I did measure little to no resistance at first, with circuit intact - thermal switch "normally closed." And then when I pulled the pins - thermal switch open - it still didn't work. Both of these would make sense -- if my problem wasn't the 'sensor' perhaps aka this thermal switch...

Here's a link to the thread with a link to the thread to that statement above. Basically, here's a link to some window info, picts, etc: Stuck Window Regulator Fix with Pics

Here's a link to a couple motor vs. switch testing methods: Drivers window motor/window switch
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I thought it would be 'fun' to compile a list of links to IC threads having to do with power window problems. I've read a handful of them, some are just single posts and aren't very useful. Ideally 'someone' could go through these and pick out the gems... I've grouped them according to a few headings, and they should be sorted within those headings from newest to oldest. Not sure why/how the earlier entries are just titles while the latter ones are full urls. If anyone knows how to make the urls titles only let me know.

"Motor," "regulator":
How to remove a motor+regulator assembly with window in...
Window regulator
Passenger Window Motor Is Dead
Driver side window regulator exploded
Warning! Drivers Window Motor
Window Motor Replacement
Driver's side power window motor replacement
2000 Insight window regulator HELP
Stuck Window Regulator Fix with Pics
Window regulator disassembly?
Anyone replace the window motor, pulley and cable assembly?
Trouble replacing power window motor
Window Motor failure?
Insight window motor
diagnosing [gremlins in] window motor
window motor replacement
window regulators
The Worst Power Windows Ever!

"Switch":
window switch
Can I force close driver side window? Switch bad.
Window switch
Driver side Electric window Switch
Dead window switch - What pins @ motor to roll up?
Power Window Switch Test/Replacement
Drivers window motor/window switch
3D Printed Window Switch Fix
Important Info for anyone with broken window switch
Any interest in repaired driver window switches?
Driver's window switch breaking
Driver side window control problem
Passenger door windows switch
Door Window Switch
removing dashboard panel to access window controls

'I have a power window problem':
Intermittent Window Function
Power Window Slowdown
Power window died on me
Power window problems
Passenger window problems
Weird Electric window issues
Power window problem
passenger power window problem
Passenger side window wont move.
Passenger window binds going up
Strange problem with Driver's Side Window
Drivers side power window problem
Power windows are slow
Window
Slow Window Winding
Passenger window stuck down
Driverside Power Window is Dead
Driver side window going VERY slow
Possible Problem With Passenger Side Window
Another window problem
quick ? on window fix
slow driver's side window
Side window jammed
Another Window Problem
passenger window

Misc. (auto-down and 'grease'):
Driver's Side Window Switch Does Not Auto Down
-------->"Auto" window down for passenger...
Disable Auto function of driver side window
Windows auto-down function
Possible window auto down fix?
https://www.insightcentral.net/threads/shin-etsu-where-do-i-apply-this-goop-for-slow-windows.11991/post-115211
https://www.insightcentral.net/threads/how-to-grease-window-run-channels.9252/post-89403
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So here's a fortuitous twist to the story: My window now works.

I still have the 'detect circuit' wires disconnected at C407. I tried the window today and it didn't work. Then, I flipped the MAIN switch OFF (and maybe back ON) -- and the window now works. Seems like I tried flipping the MAIN switch before I removed those wires and it still didn't work. But I can't remember for sure. I know that it wasn't inadvertently switched OFF, though.

So, if your power window problem sounds anything like mine, first try flipping the MAIN switch OFF/back ON, and if that doesn't work, pull one or both of the 'detect circuit' wires at C407, light green and/or blue, and then flip the MAIN switch OFF/back ON. If your problem is the same as mine this should fix it.

I'm thinking there was a problem or fault with the detect circuit/sensor thing, but that fault gets implemented by the "power window control unit." So that needs to be reset, at minimum, which perhaps flipping the MAIN switch OFF and then ON does. This would seem the case IF I never touched the MAIN switch before I removed those wires (but I'm pretty sure I did).

The alternative explanation is that the detect circuit sensor thing had a fault and remains faulty, but now that it's disconnected it can't cause the fault again. However, the MAIN switch/power window control unit still needed to be reset, which I did with the detect circuit disconnected, and now it works...

The auto-down function doesn't work, but I think that's actually a good thing. It always annoyed me that when I tried to roll my window down, half the time I'd inadvertently flip the switch too far and it'd do the auto-down thing, when that's not what I was looking for. Good riddance.
 

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Not sure it’s fixed by flicking off the main switch. Am thinking it may appear again. Mine been doing the same thing after sitting over nite and not disconnecting anything. The failure is in the pot switch we’re the contact fingers fail after repeated uses over the years. Only time will tell. When you get time if possible could we get a few pictures of the wire and area you unhooking it from. Great job as always and thank you for organizing all the post for a quick reference.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Not sure it’s fixed by flicking off the main switch. Am thinking it may appear again. Mine been doing the same thing after sitting over nite and not disconnecting anything. The failure is in the pot switch where the contact fingers fail after repeated uses over the years.
I'm not sure either (that it's fixed in general) - but I'm pretty sure. Less sure that turning the MAIN switch OFF/back ON can be a fix in itself. I'm leaniing more toward the wire removal + Main switch reset. I'll probably re-install the wires and see what happens.

As far as "pot switch" contacts go, I think that's a different problem. If you recall I was opening and closing my window repeatedly, to 'spread the lube' in the rubber channels. Something likely over-heated, and I'm thinking that something was the sensor thing/detect circuit. Could be wrong though...

When you get time if possible could we get a few pictures of the wire and area you unhooking it from.
All the info is in the electrical troubleshooting manual, even the downloadable one. You can't miss C407 - it's just a grey 16 pin connector attached to the sheet metal behind and a little above the fuse box. Easy to pull the plug out and fairly easy to snap it open and remove the terminals - light green and blue wires in one of the corners of the connector... Kind of a pain to work under the dash, though. C407 is much easier to work with than the other one, C405; C405 is sort of easier to reach, but the cables to it are shorter and it's bundled with another connector, and the connector itself is one of those light blue ones with the white cage-things, I can never figure out how to get those open properly, doubly hard if it's also attached to another connector, etc...
 

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Did someone experience whinning noise when roll up window?

Out of nowhere, my driver side had this issue. Loud winning noise.
Then couple of week later, the winning is almost gone.
 

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If you are playing on a slot machine long enough the "winnings" will eventually go away..
 

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Funny you mention the main switch... my windows weren’t responding correctly the other day. Finally fixed by flipping that switch back and forth.
Happened again a week later...thats when I remembered... oh yeah, I’ve got a 2-year old that likes to sit on my lap in the garage and push all the buttons he can reach, LOL!
I think it was not fully seated on or off.
Ah, youth!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
^ If you're addressing my problem I know I didn't bump the main switch before my window stopped working.
 

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When you turn the Main switch off it only disables the passenger window. The driver's window still works.

Sam
 
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