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Eq, hows your drivers window working out, are you still flick the ima battery off to get window to work. Mine works every morning but later in the day with heat soak it won’t.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
^ "flick the ima battery off"?? I think you're confusing IMA pack switch with power window "MAIN" switch. I flipped the power window main switch to get my window to work (and removed those wires to the 'detect circuit sensor'). Window still working more or less fine -- as it was before it went dead, though it was slow before... I never did re-connect those wires to test that idea.

According to that passage I quoted from another thread, that I posted a few posts up, the 'detect circuit' sensor is a thermal switch that's normally closed but breaks open when the thermal switch heats up, normally due to the window reaching the closed position (possibly up as well). Sounds like your problem might be related to that switch. If it is, I think what I did should fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Looks like you were right, Honda hybrid442 -- my window went dead again. Rolled up, stopped working. I tried flipping the MAIN switch but it did nothing, so perhaps when I did that last time and it started working it was just a freaky coincidence. The thing is, I still have the 'detect circuit' wires disconnected at connector 407, too - so it seems like that circuit can't be playing any role in the problem... Or maybe the sensor itself is bad and/or tripping and that manifests itself right at the motor... Earlier I was thinking that the sensor might 'trip' but that it was merely a signal that the power window control unit then acted upon to decide to disable the window. That doesn't seem to be the case...

My motor is really slow, so something in the motor itself is likely not helping...

My guess at this point is that my motor is cruddy - maybe the brushes are worn or something - so it's slow and heats up more than it should. Then perhaps the detect circuit switch is simply the thermal switch that was mentioned earlier - closed when temp is normal, open when too hot. It trips and disconnects power to the motor. Though, it seems odd that when I try to use the window when it's not working, I still see current on the OBDIIC&C; if the 'thermal switch' were open, why would current flow at all??
 

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There a recent post about removing the window motor and cleaning the copper brushes recently with some good detail. This would be easier and safer than removing the window switch. I think your still seen power at the window switch and those contact fingers inside the button is failing. I do have several window switches up the garage if you need one . You always respond and try to answer everyone’s problems and I’d be glad to give ya one for the cost of shipping to help you out. Am pretty sure I have 2 laying around and a window regulator spare too.Also I think mudder has a 3 d printer repair part for the switch too.
 

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Stuck window regulator with pics. I just commented on it to move it up the top for you. Keep us posted. Mine still working when the heat goes away in the mornings. Also I notice the remote doesn’t work as well in the same heat. Start think there my be a correlation.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
^ Thanks for the offer, I may need a switch, we'll see. And yeah, I've seen that motor post. I'll probably be taking mine out and apart at some point. Probably not too soon though, too lazy, other things to do...
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Seems like I'm following in your footsteps HH - my window works again. It really does seem like symptoms caused by a thermal switch tripping-out, cooling, and then tripping back in, with the underlying cause being a motor that's degraded in some way, like worn brushes, so it overheats too easily...
 

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Discussion Starter #29
^It's been hot, but when I drove and it conked-out it was probably only around 75F. In general it's been in the 80s and 90s. It was probably 71F this morning when it decided to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
...It really does seem like symptoms caused by a thermal switch tripping-out, cooling, and then tripping back in, with the underlying cause being a motor that's degraded in some way, like worn brushes, so it overheats too easily.
It occurred to me that this doesn't really make sense, either. When my window went dead the first time, it was dead for days. That can't possibly be related solely to a thermal switch heating and tripping open, and then cooling and closing again. If that were the problem it'd heat, trip, and then cool, close - the change in temp couldn't happen over days.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Took my door apart and removed the window regulator. Everything looked pretty 'clean', no obvious problems. I opened up the motor and didn't see any problem. The brushes looked fine. I operated the motor/regulator as removed and it seems fine...

Now, inspecting my window run channels (the rubber tracks that window slides against), I noticed that despite my previous and recent 'lubing', the channels were very tacky, sticky. Something's not right here.

Only a couple weeks ago I lubed the channel with a silicone lube called "Superlube." And maybe a week before that I used a little bit of a white spray-on lithium grease. When I used the white lithium grease the window immediately acted fine, moved quickly. That's when the window first died (because I ran it up and down multiple times in a row). Since then I used the Superlube (after the window started working again). And gradually the window started getting slower and slower and failed twice more.

I'm now pretty sure the Superlube isn't working, that it has dried-up and has made the run channel tacky. I only lubed the sides; when I run the tip of a plastic panel clip remover tool in the top channel, it slides smoothly, but doing the same along the side channels there's a lot of binding and stutter...

So... I'm kind of stumped about what lube - if any - to use now. I'm reminded of how I put various different greases on the tube that attaches the air intake snorkel to the air box - and they have all failed miserably. I used Sil Glyde - it dries, gets tacky, and it's harder to pull the snorkel off than without anything. I tried the Superlube - same thing. I tried multi-purpose grease - same thing. I tried 3-in-one oil - same thing. That interface is between rubber hose and plastic. Everything I've tried dries up and makes the rubber hose stick to the plastic bung on the air box... Now I'm thinking it might end up being the same with the window run channels.

People say use "Shin-Etsu," but that's also a silicone grease, so I'm not convinced that will help/work in the long run, though people say it does...

In the meantime, I've used "Goop" hand cleaner to clean-out the run channels - put a little on a rag and used the trim removal tool tip to run along the channel. Interestingly, just by doing that the tip of the plastic tool now slides smoothly in the channel. I'm thinking of just cleaning the channels along the full length and not using anything else...

If anyone's got suggestions, ideas, please let me know.
 

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I've used CRC Silcone Lubricant for years without any problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
^ I'm thinking maybe mixing lubes was part of my problem, like maybe if I used the silicone stuff you mention exclusively it would've been OK. But once I tried using something else as well, the two interacted and made a mess...

In any event, I cleaned the full length of the run channels with Goop, and the window edges - and put everything back together with no lube in the channels. It works fine now, as fast as the passenger side, but we'll see if it lasts.

The takeaway from all this seems to be that we should probably be pretty careful about what we use, and how much, etc. lube in the run channels. I don't think I even saw it mentioned that the channels are lubed in the service manual, though it lists all the other things to lube/do when putting stuff back together. Makes me think that they should just be clean and kept clean...

A couple other tips:

-Wear gloves when you're reaching into the door to remove stuff, even if you're careful. There's quite a few sharp-ish metal edges around there.

-You need to remove the poly plastic cover to get into the door, and you need to remove a couple wire connectors to fully remove the plastic cover. The connector for the window regulator is attached to the door with one of those plastic bung things, and then the male and female ends of the connector connect. Obviously easy to pull male from female. But removing the connector from the door you might think it'd be easiest to pull the bung thing from the door, rather than pulling the connector from the bung. Much easier to do the latter if you know how. The connector slides off the bung if you depress a tang behind the connector, accessed from the left hand side. It's accessible through a tiny slot, I could just fit a bent paper clip into it. It's not obvious how to do it, where it accessed, you really have to get a close look at it.

I struggled like for 1/2 an hour or so trying to get the bung off the door without breaking it; it just didn't want to come off. I did get it off that way, but it's got a couple extra tangs on it that can easily break. I don't think it's meant to come off. Plus, you have to reach into the door and futz around a lot, and your hands can get banged up/cut-up easily (hence, the gloves and the other method)...

Everything else was pretty straight forward, once you start taking stuff apart you can see what needs to be done to move forward.

Oh, actually, I did need to reference the manual to understand how to remove the window glass. The window glass is bolted to an elevator-like thing that slides up and down on the regulator metal track. Thus, the window needs to be lowered to the right level so that one of the bolts can be accessed through a hole in the door. Two bolts hold the window to that elevator thing; 4 bolts hold the regulator track to the door. If you know these simple things then the job is straight forward.
 

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Try this product. Space technology. 303 Aerospace protectant for plastic ,vinyl, and rubber. Soak your windshield wipers in it overnite and they will last a lot longer. Great long lasting.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
^ hmm, yeah, I use that stuff on the black plastic and vinyl bits around the car. It just kind of wears away though in not too long a time. I have to reapply often... I don't think it would gum-up the window run channels, but I doubt it would provide a lasting lubrication effect, either... It did cross my mind, though, after I cleaned them with Goop, to use the 303. I opted not to.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
^ On the run channels? I don't think so, though it might be on the regulator's nylon sliding parts. I saw some white stuff there...
 
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