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Old 11-08-2009, 05:45 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Valve Adjustment Proceedure/Write Up - With Pics

We adjusted the valves on my Uncles Insight this morning. We looked for a write up with pics before we started but didn't find one (Maybe I just didn't look hard enough, not sure)...Anyways we photographed the process in case it would help anyone out in doing their own valve adjustment, it's really a very easy procedure. My Uncles Insight is a 2005 and was ticking fairly loud when cold, it has 75K miles on it. We decided to do a valve adjustment just for piece of mind that they are set correctly.

Start with the engine cold! This is a MUST to get the valve clearance set correctly. I like to do the valves first thing in the morning after the car has sat all night.

Next place the parking brake on and place the transmission in neutral, this way the engine is disengaged from the transmission and you can rotate the engine over by hand when needed later on.

Tools: You will need a 19mm open end wrench, 17mm open/box end wrench, 10mm socket/ratchet, 10mm open/box end wrench, screw driver, feeler gauges.


Start by removing the three 10mm bolts that hold the plastic cover onto the top of the engine. Remove the plastic cover and set it aside along with the three bolts/washers.





This is what it will look like underneath the plastic cover. You can see the valve cover and several hoses that need to be moved out of the way.

Starting with the rear red arrow that I've labeled number "1", remove the nut/stud. Once it's removed you can slide the bracket underneath the stud up over the remaining stud and out of the way. Once the bracket is out of the way re-install the stud into the valve cover so it doesn't get lost.

Next remove the 10mm bolt on the right side of the valve cover that is holding the hose, I've labeled this one number "2". Move the bracket to the side and re-install the bolt back in the valve cover so it doesn't get lost.

Next remove the 10mm bolt on the left side of the valve cover that is holding the hose bracket to the valve cover. I've labeled this one number "3" in the pic. Place the bolt in a Jar or something similar so it won't get lost.

Next take a pair of pliers and slide back the clips holding the two hoses onto the top front of the valve cover, I've added two arrows pointing to the clips. Twist the hose as you pull them to get them to pop free, it may be helpful to take a flat bladed screw driver and gently pry the hoses loose as you pull them if they are stuck.





Your valve cover should look like this at this point.

Finally remove the remaining 10mm bolts around the base of the valve cover, place them in the jar so they won't get lost. At this point the valve cover is free and can be lifted up off the engine and set to the side.

NOTE: Two of the valve cover bolts are a different color than the others. The two corner bolts on the passenger side (Left Side) of the valve cover are black, the rest are gold colored. The black bolts have a thicker shank than the gold ones and are used to align the valve cover, take note of the holes that the black headed bolts come out of and re-install them in the same spot upon reassembly.





At this point you can see the valves. Now we need to get the engine rolled over to TDC (Top Dead Center) on the number 1 cylinder to start the adjustment procedure. The number 1 cylinder is the one closest to the camshaft sprocket...or closest to the passenger side of the car.

Using a 19mm open end wrench turn the nut on the crank pulley in a clockwise direction until the white line on the crank pulley lines up with the pointer, the white mark is Top Dead Center (TDC).





Continued below....They only let you include 4 images per post for some weird reason...hmmmmm. So I'll just break it up in a few posts.

Last edited by Hodakaguy; 11-15-2009 at 10:58 AM.
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Old 11-08-2009, 06:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Continued from above.....

Now look at the end of the camshaft sprocket and look at the alignment mark. There are three flat lines on the sprocket, one of them has a "1" stamped under it. This is the reference for cyl number 1. The line should be level with the top of the engine surface. If you don't see the line with the "1" under it at this point rotate the crank 360 degrees and look at it again.





Once the white line on the crank pulley is lined up with the pointer and the flat line on the sprocket with the "1" under it is level with the top of the engine you are ready to check the valves on the number 1 cylinder.

The valve specs are:
Intake Clearance - 0.007 - 0.009 in
Exhaust Clearance is 0.008 - 0.010 in

I like to set my clearance at the bottom of the range, so we will be aiming for .007 for the intake valves and .008 for the exhaust valves.

Below is a close up of the valve adjustment screws. The 10mm nut is the jam nut and you use a flat bladed screw driver to turn the adjuster screw and make the adjustment.





Here I'm checking the clearance on one of the exhaust valves on cylinder number 1. The intake valves are the ones on the front side of the engine, the exhaust valves are the rear ones.

This is where you take the measurement at. The feeler gauge should slide through with a slight resistance, if it's to tight it will drag to much and if its to loose it will slide through with no resistance. Make sure that the feeler is level with the valve head as you push it through so you will get a accurate feel with it, if it's on a angle it can give you a false reading.

If you are unfamiliar with using a feeler gauge there is a simple way to double check yourself. If you are setting a valve to say .007" and you think you have about the right feel with the gauge (slight resistance) then try the feeler gauge above and below .007" to double check your work. A .006" feeler should be to loose and a .008" feeler should be to tight.

Cylinder number 1 had all 4 valves at the correct setting and none of them required adjustment. Now on to the next Cylinder.







The next cylinder that will be adjusted will be cylinder number 3, the one closest to the drivers side of the car. You will need to rotate the cam sprocket 120 deg (240 deg rotation on the crank pulley) to get the next flat line up mark on the cam sprocket to match up horizontal with the top of the engine again.

So rotate the crankshaft pulley in a clockwise direction again until the next flat line up mark appears as pictured below. At this point cylinder number 3 will be ready to adjust. (I like to double check by wiggling the rocker arms at this point. Cylinder number three should have a slight bit of play in the rocker arms at this point. Just grab them at the valve end of the rocker arm and wiggle them up and down, you should feel a very slight amount of play. This is just a double verification that this cylinder is ready to adjust.




Continued again below........

Last edited by Hodakaguy; 11-24-2009 at 09:23 AM.
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Old 11-08-2009, 06:21 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Continued from above....

We checked the valve clearances on cyl number 3 and found that both Intake valves were at .008" (still in the allowable range but we re-adjusted them to .007").

In this picture you can see us adjusting the intake valves on cylinder number 3. When you make an adjustment you have to allow a little for the stretch of the adjustment shaft when you tighten the jam nut back down. Once you make an adjustment and tighten the jam nut then re-check the clearance again. It may take a couple times to get it right.

The Torque specs for the jam nuts are:

14 ft-lbs on the Intake
10 ft-lbs on the Exhaust

I tightened the jam nuts by feel......






After Cylinder number 3 is completed then it's just the same procedure to check/adjust cylinder number 2 (the middle cylinder). Rotate the crank pulley until the next flat alignment mark on the camshaft sprocket lines up (120 Degrees of camshaft rotation). Then check and adjust the valves.

The number two cylinder on my uncles Insight had .009" exhaust measurements and .008" Intake measurements. We reset them to .008" and .007".

I like to record my as found and as left readings when adjusting valves so we wrote them down in the small book my uncle keeps for maint. on the car.

After all the cylinders have been checked and adjusted then just reverse the process to button the engine back up and your finished. If you have never completed a valve adjustment then plan on and hour or so worth of time to finish the job, it will go a lot faster after you have completed it once before.

Here's one last overall shot of the engine with the valve cover removed.



Hope this helps.



Hodakaguy

Last edited by Hodakaguy; 11-08-2009 at 06:28 PM.
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Old 11-08-2009, 06:41 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Dude, you're sick! I have been meaning to do a valve adjustment for some time but was just going to take it to the shop. After seeing this, I will be doing it myself. These instructions are very thorough and the pictures are top notch. Congrats!

I have been hearing a loud ticking and even a knocking under load since owning the car and hope this fixes the problem. Thanks!
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Old 11-08-2009, 07:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Nice work!

I've done mine twice an total time now is about 15 minutes from tools out to tools back in toolbox. It is VERY easy, takes moments, needs very few tools or expertise to do, and saves a lot of $$$.

Question, what program did you use to detail your pics? I would have liked to do that same post with the valves and the tranny/ISB replacement...
Thanks
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Old 11-08-2009, 09:41 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks...I'm glad that the write up can help someone out. I really HATE taking any vehicle of mine to the shop, I just don't trust them. If I do it myself I know its done the way that I want it done, Time is money for a shop...they won't spend the extra time on your vehicle that you will to make sure everything is perfect.

For editing the photo's and inserting the arrows ect I just use MSPaint that comes with any PC, not the greatest but its free Just right click on your thumbnailed pics and click "open with"...then click MSPaint.

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Old 11-09-2009, 02:10 AM   #7 (permalink)
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When putting the gasket on the valve cover, do you have to use any kind of sealant?
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Old 11-09-2009, 06:45 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 60MPG View Post
When putting the gasket on the valve cover, do you have to use any kind of sealant?
No..the gasket is a rubber type gasket and will re-seal as long as it's not damaged, just check it over carefully for nicks ect.
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Old 11-09-2009, 07:01 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Excellent thread and nice pics. Thanks for posting.
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Old 11-09-2009, 07:07 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Very nicely done......
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