2010 Insight subwoofer enclosure in progress (pics attached)
Here's what we've started with today on building the custom enclosure.
It's using 3/4" MDF. Going to finish this and the amp rack tomorrow.
I'll try to get more pictures later.
Since I won't have the styrofoam, I'll need new support beams to hold up the flooring inside. This will all be stealth when I am finished.
Click on each thumbnail attachment.
There's going to be holes cut in the wood next to the amp on both sides to let sound and airflow come through. Plus the top will have holes cut to let the amp breath and for sound to come through as well.
When I looked over the car to put in subwoofer, the spot you are working on looked like a good spot to tuck in a sub
How are you going to deal with battery, will the enclosures be easily removable for battery service? (The amp is sitting right on top of the battery enclosure).
Also, what about the spare tire? Just leaving it out?
Good start. I saw a pump with a container of tire slime made together that was wheel sensor safe. I did the plug a hole one afternoon, but that was a lot of work.
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Enginer 4 kilowatt PHEV, 3000k 35 watt fogs, Eco bulb highs, 4300k 35 watt low all w/relay kits, DRLs/Rear Wiper removed&rear interior gutted, Sony HU W/front speakers, Tanabe nf springs, 35% tint all around, all LED lamp replacement, 09 fit progress rear sway bar, OEM block heater, full gril block, KN Filter, Honda vent visiors, group 51 battery, home made balancer/grid charger Best/Worse MPG 96/36
I'm getting rid of the spare tire. I always keep a portable tire pump and a plug kit. I haven't changed a temporary tire in almost 20 years. I always plug the tire right on the spot just the way a garage would do it. I've done it for couple dozen other people as well.
Plan on running a 4 gauge wire to the front of the car with maybe a 40 or 60 amp fuse. I'd rather go with a 40 amp fuse (if possible). I'd rather the fuse go before anything else. I never want the stereo to overpower the electrical system.
I am hoping to change to a new battery in the future and get rid of the stock one.
Tomorrow will be a very busy day to do the rest of the enclosure.
If all goes well, I'll have some really cool pictures to show.
If all goes well, I'll have some really cool pictures to show.
I'm looking forward to it. BTW, my Kenwood blew the 40a fuse I had at the battery within the first few minutes. If you believe that your amp is seriously underated, then you may need to go 60 or turn the gain down.
__________________ Thundersyt
'02 Honda Insight MT @ 191k W/rebuilt pack (via Hybrid Battery Repair)
Corey, Calpod, & TPS mods / True lifetime average of 54.5
DVD / HD radio head unit w/500w Kenwood amp & .5 farad cap
4x Kenwood 6.5" 3-ways & Kicker 8" L7 in custom stealth box (via Expert Fabricator)
7" LCD monitor in passenger sun visor/ 35% tint/ Nitrofill @ 50psi
I'm looking forward to it. BTW, my Kenwood blew the 40a fuse I had at the battery within the first few minutes. If you believe that your amp is seriously underated, then you may need to go 60 or turn the gain down.
This will suck. I was hoping to put a 40A fuse. I guess I'll have to go with a 60 like I had on previous cars. I really didn't want to do that.
I guess I will have to turn the gains down a bit as well.
I know the stereo shop who was helping me was telling me a 100A. I don't want a 100A fuse on a 400 watt amplifier.
Supposedly... 400W / 12V = 33.33 amps.
When the engine is running: 400W / 14.4V = 27.77 amps.
So if you're blowing a 40 amp fuse with your Kenwood amp, you must be pushing a significant amount of power above and beyond what I am trying to do here.
And that's with the music going full blast at a constant, which I never really do that. I try to keep the music at responsible listening levels. I don't want to blow up equipment or go deaf.
In your case with the Kenwood, 500W / 14.4V = 34.7 amps.
So maybe your amp is underrated as well. What gauge wire do you have running to the amp? What distribution blocks are you using? Got any pictures?
Im running 20amp fuses in the blocks, 60 amp at the battery under the hood. No problems, havent blown them, but have had the amp cut out when turned up too loud.
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Enginer 4 kilowatt PHEV, 3000k 35 watt fogs, Eco bulb highs, 4300k 35 watt low all w/relay kits, DRLs/Rear Wiper removed&rear interior gutted, Sony HU W/front speakers, Tanabe nf springs, 35% tint all around, all LED lamp replacement, 09 fit progress rear sway bar, OEM block heater, full gril block, KN Filter, Honda vent visiors, group 51 battery, home made balancer/grid charger Best/Worse MPG 96/36
Im running 20amp fuses in the blocks, 60 amp at the battery under the hood. No problems, havent blown them, but have had the amp cut out when turned up too loud.
Wow... then the power from this car is weak if your amp is turning off.
Let me go back to getting this enclosure and amp rack finished. I'll try to post more pics as soon as I can.
This will suck. I was hoping to put a 40A fuse. I guess I'll have to go with a 60 like I had on previous cars. I really didn't want to do that.
That's crazy putting a 60 A fuse and running 4 gauge wire back there. You serious need to worry about electrical fires, the car is almost all plastic!
Suggestion is to start 25A first and see if it blows then go up to 30A going too high too fast and you will never know how much draw at the DC-DC your doing. Worst if you damage the wire shorting 60A is a pain compared to 25 or 30. It's far cheaper to blow a fuse than the DC-DC, or start a fire.
That's crazy putting a 60 A fuse and running 4 gauge wire back there. You serious need to worry about electrical fires, the car is almost all plastic!
Suggestion is to start 25A first and see if it blows then go up to 30A going too high too fast and you will never know how much draw at the DC-DC your doing. Worst if you damage the wire shorting 60A is a pain compared to 25 or 30. It's far cheaper to blow a fuse than the DC-DC, or start a fire.
How many car stereo systems have you installed in your life?
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