Rear Shock Replacement-My Version

[Homerjs49]

***FINAL EDIT (I hope) If you have previously read this how-to please note that step 12 has been added due to an oversight ( Thanks 02) Sorry folks***

Hello everyone I finished this project yesterday but had to wait until I had some free time to post. After doing some research Saturday night regarding drilling rubber and even Googling "expanding rubber bushings" I was lead to a few 4x4 forums and was given an even better idea of fabricating bar-pin mounts for the fresh Monroe 5752 shock. This way the integrity of the bushing is intact and there is no need to tear apart your old Honda shock saving time!!!

It was quite an easy job and after completing the first the second one took me all of 30 minutes from beginning to it being mounted on the car. So figure 1-2 hours depending on your tools, skill, etc.

I drive a car-hauler for a living and ran it by the shop foreman this morning. To my amazement he told me that they used to fabricate bar-pin mounts for "The Race Car" some years back out of bar stock. When I asked him how he thought these would hold up he said that as the car is so light there should be no problems. Additionally I see the tubing used for off-road 4x4's and this isn't much different.

The Monroe 5752 is labeled on the box as a light truck shock. After a long test drive yesterday I feel that the dampening is way better. The car corners well, doesn't skip on curves anymore (though I had a broken shock), and the bumps don't seem to be so jolting.

As this has been a group effort IMO thanks to all who have done the research as I am a new comer to this topic and thanks for this forum and letting me contribute my two cents

[Homerjs49]

For this project you will need:

2 Monroe 5752 shocks (bought mine at Advance Auto) $22.99

2 6" length of 3/8 galvanized pipe (don't get gas as I believe it's cast) $9.00

2 2" nipples of 3/8 galvanized pipe $8.00

A piece of thin tough plastic like from a laundry soap or oil bottle will do the trick

Vice Grips, WD-40, 5lb sledge hammer, 3/8" drill bit and drill, and a hard raised surface (I used a 25lb barbell weight), a hack saw



1)Remove your old shocks.

2)Saw off the threaded ends of the pipe. It's too long to fit between the humps and I didn't want to drill through the weaker thread part.



3)Using the hammer flatten one end of the pipe about 1"-1 1/2" give or take.

[Homerjs49]

4)Lube up the hole in the shock with WD-40 and insert the round end into the TOP shock hole. Leave it offset to one side (you can center it again after the next step).





5)On the hard surface flatten down the other end with the hammer making sure to keep the same angle as the other end. Then center the mount.





As you see it's not perfect and doesn't have to be. The mounting/tightening will take care of that.

[Homerjs49]

6)Now drill your holes. I estimated the distance from the side ( I guess it's about 1/2") then then using a punch marked the spot and then measured approximately 2 3/4" and marked the other spot. I put a block of wood underneath and lubed it with WD-40 once or twice 'peck drilling' (pressure then no pressure then pressure etc) the hole. Then make the holes a bit sloppy with the drill because I know my measurements weren't exactly "ON".

CAUTION: As the drill get's ready to break through the outer pipe wall it may catch and rip either the pipe/drill from your hand or spin around. Make sure your drill is TIGHT in the chuck.





7)Lube up the bottom hole with WD-40 and insert the 2" nipple. This replaces the old bottom mount with no need for shimming.

[Homerjs49]

Ready to mount!



9)I found starting the outboard bolt 1st then using an extension to align the inboard bolt worked best. Leave it LOOSE!



10)Using vice-grips bend the bottom tab that isn't the nut plate just a bit to accommodate the 2" nipple (it's just a tiny bit longer than the original Honda mount). Align then start that bolt.

[Homerjs49]

11)Now tighten the piss out of the two top mount bolts! The bar-pin metal should flatten out and be pinched between the bolts eliminating all sloppiness. It is not necessary to tighten the bottom bolt at this point.

12)NEW STEP-DIELECTRIC INSTALLATION
(You can try to do it all at once without step 11 first but my feeling is that you will tear the plastic without knowing resulting in corrosion)

***Due to the use of dissimilar metals (aluminum and steel) a dielectric is required between the mount and the car body to prevent corrosion of the body. A small piece of thin tough plastic between the contact points will do the trick. Example: If you have a plastic notebook binder you can cut that up. Or a plastic oil container. Laundry soap bottle.***
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion


Remove the shock again now that you have bent the metal into place. I used an oil 1qt oil bottle as a plastic dielectric source. I just cut the side out then cut that into 4 squares, drilled a hole and trimmed it to fit. Easy...








13) Tighten all bolts.
You're done... Nice Job!!!

[uhtrinity]

You list the Monroe 5752, but searching reveals several variations. For example one has a t bar at the top. Are there any additional designations on the number or a specific link?

[Homerjs49]

Originally Posted by uhtrinity

You list the Monroe 5752, but searching reveals several variations. For example one has a t bar at the top. Are there any additional designations on the number or a specific link?

I don't know as I am not at home. I bought them from Advance Auto Parts and to be honest I expected the bar-pin in the shock but was pleasantly surprised it wasn't. There weren't any spacers in the shock mount either... Just a rubber bushing

Did I get lucky? IDK!!!

The only reason I know about using the 5752 was because of the research done by http://www.insightcentral.net/forums...02insight.html. I originally tried a Gabriel so called equivalent from AutoZone but it bottomed out. Thanks 02!!!

[Blue-Civic-Hybrid]

Holy crap Homer! This is awesome! This looks like something anyone can do! Thanks for taking the plunge and actually doing this!

I know what I'll be doing once my Insight reaches 100k miles!

[uhtrinity]

I had been watching that other thread and waiting for something definitive. Just ordered two on Amazon at $16.23 each with free shipping.