Maybe this will help.

Hybrid Automotive - Honda Insight (2000-2006) Battery Bypass Instructions




Willie

 

When I disabled mine I pulled the two plugs from the rear of the BCM as shown in the procedure, but I also pulled the one plug from the front of the BCM. I've seen some threads on here of folks only pulling the two rear plugs and their cars had some issues, just to be sure it works unplug that one front plug also.

Also something to remember when you turn off the IMA batter and pull the plugs don't rev the engine over 4K RPMs. If you go over 4K the DC-DC system shuts down and the RED Brake/Battery light will come on, this is to try and protect the system from high voltage. After about 45 seconds the system should reset and the RED lights go out and everything be fine after that. Due to there being no IMA battery to absorb the extra voltage at high RPMs there is a small chance of damaging the big capacitors in the system, it is rare but because of this I always try and shift at 3K RPMs or below when it is in this mode.

 

I don't think it will because they thought of that, your redline drops to 5500RPM too when you are in a condition where you get the DC-DC light, so there is only 5500rpm to create a higher voltage than what the DC-DC faults at rather than the full 6200 or whatever it gets to(what is our redline anyway, seems like the gauge strikes 6300 sometimes?). I think they thought of this issue based on that. Just don't downshift into near-redline territory, not that you should ever do that anyway.

 

Is there a reason to do this? (The other option being to simply drive w/ the CEL and IMA lights on) I can't remember whether I've read an explanation or not.

 

You may be able to drive with the initial IMA code for quite some time but eventually your battery can deteriorate to the point that the whole DC-DC system shuts down. At that point the red Brake/Battery light will appear on the dash and the car will stop charging your 12V battery under the hood. The only way to make the car drivable after that is to turn off the IMA switch and pull the BCM plugs.

 

That's where I am in the life of my batteries right now. I will be doing the bypass this weekend.

 

Just remember not to rev the engine over 4K RPM, it will shut down the DC-DC converter for about 45 seconds to protect the system if you do. If it does the red Battery/Brake light will come on indicating no charging of the 12V battery, just keep driving normally and it will turn off shortly.

 

MrFox - you might also get one of those plug-in-voltage-monitors that you can plug into the power socket/cig lighter. Because if your pack is very badly deteriorated it will totally shut down the DC/DC and your 12v will not be charged. You will also know that is happening if the batter/brake lights stay on constantly and do not turn off.

 

Just did this!

Hi, I just followed the instructions (the posting with the photos) and disabled the BCM today on our 2000 with manual transmission (I only disconnected the two plugs as indicated in the photo, is that all I needed to do?). The IMA had been out for some time and the 12V battery was not maintaining charge. I am assuming that the weird clicking and couple second delay on starting is normal and that the IMA and check engine lights should stay on? The car did start up and the battery/brake lights are off. The acceleration seems fine when I drove it around the block. We have a 2000 and a 2004 (the dealer just replaced the IMA battery on our 2004 for free which I loved) and I just don't know if I want to spend around $2,000 to replace it on our 2000. It runs like a new car even though it has 192,xxx miles on her! We love these cars. Any thoughts or confirmation on how I did it and if the lights should stay on are greatly appreciated!

 

Any thoughts or confirmation on how I did it and if the lights should stay on are greatly appreciated!

Check engine and IMA light are forever on...brake and generator lights are on (and no "alternator" output for about 45 seconds) when rpm ~<1,200; > 3,900 .

 

starting up....

It runs just fine once it starts up, but makes a lot of clicking and whirring sounds and takes 15 seconds or so to start up...is that normal once the bcm is disconnected and ima switch turned off? Thanks!

 

15 seconds sounds a bit long but yes there is a delay as you wait for the 12V starter to kick in.

 

thank you!

I may have overestimated the time, but glad the delay and noise is normal...she runs great after starting and still greats great mpg! Thank you so much for the replies!

 

I have shut off my IMA battery and pulled the two plugs per the disconnect procedure.

My brake/battery light is illuminated all the time in addition to the IMA light and check engine light being illuminated.

Does this mean that my DC-DC convertor is not charging my 12 volt battery? So far I have driven a few days (about 80 miles) with no significant loss in fuel economy. Vehicle performance is actually better than when I was fighting the IMA warning prior to the disconnect.

Roger

 

That's right Roger, your 12v battery is not being charged, so at some point either tomorrow or the next day, everything will die... Check the voltage, and maybe charge up the 12v yourself until you can get the IMA going again.

 

Roger
PLEASE include your LOCATION in your PROFILE. Maybe purchase one of these for monitoring your 12V battery.
Equus Innova 3721 Battery Charging System Monitor - Walmart.com
Many INSIGHTERS have driven thousands of miles with a malfunctioning IMA battery.

HTH
Willie

 

I have read a fair amount about grid chargers as a means to delay the eventual need to replace the IMA battery. It sounds like there are mixed results but it is not clear if there is a predisposition to when a battery pack is still viable versus to far gone for a grid charger to salvage. Any insight would be appreciated.

 

After reading several posts, I checked, and found that 2 of the grounding straps were nearly severed, so I replaced them today with much heavier cables...the other 2 still seem to be ok. After fixing them, I stopped for gas and the car started right up with very little delay or chug...if it continues this way, on Sunday, I am going to reconnect the big battery to see if it will recalibrate for a bit...I also read that the IMA can be temporarily "fixed" once the grounding straps are repaired...we shall see!

I contacted a grid charger person from this site and he is trying to locate someone in my area who could assist me with installation of the grid charger on each of our Insights as I am not sure I could manage it on my own!

 

After reading several posts, I checked, and found that 2 of the grounding straps were nearly severed, so I replaced them today with much heavier cables..

These will cause problems of their own.

On a separate but similar matter, when my 12v battery terminals weren't securely tightened, I had all the same lights on but I was only able to drive about 40-50 miles before my car konked out on a new battery. I also had a bad battery to ground cable issue and when that was replaced, my IMA battery issue was extended so I could drive for a couple of week without an IMA light but because my IMA battery is bad - it didn't entirely solve the problem.

 

I've read some thing where people said to disconnect all three, I'm sure just the two are fine but when I did mine I figured why not and did all three. Can you put the 12V on a charger overnight to see if maybe it being low is causing issues? I'm impressed that you've gone as far as you have if it really isn't charging?

 

We had the same issue until we disconnected the IMA. We keep the 12v on a battery tender when parked and it keeps it fully charged. It gets driven 60 miles roundtrip each day and still gets excellent mpg.

 

Roger and I have connected and will be talking about his situation.
I'll go over some of the options with him, grid charger install, grid charging with discharge, replacement pack, etc.

The challenge for Roger may be that his "IMA has been out for some time". Not sure how long it's been, but we'll see.

Looking forward to keeping him on the road.

 

IMA connections

2000 Insight...
IMA is out and I'm bypassing per the instructions on the forum. But I can't get the connectors out of the IMA. I've pulled and pried all that I'm comfortable doing. Are there some sort of locks on these to keep them from coming loose?

Thanks!!

TC

 

You have to "Pinch" the connectors. There is a locking tab on the connectors.
Please include your LOCATION in your PROFILE.

HTH
Willie

 

found 'em

As usual, was too impatient. Kept looking in the forums and found this:

http://www.insightcentral.net/forums/problems-troubleshooting/22638-help-ima-bypass-4.html

In case the link doesn't work, and someone else is as slow as I am, this is a video embedded in the thread. The locks are on the bottom of the connectors - as demonstrated in the video. I couldn't see them but could feel them. Popped right out once I disengaged the locks.

As others have said... Thanks to all in this forum for the advice and experience. Didn't realize I could bypass the IMA 'til I started looking for solutions here...

THANKS!

TC

 

Extremely helpful! Had to finally disconnect the IMA. I found this thread (http://www.insightcentral.net/forums/problems-troubleshooting/23912-problem-bcm-disconnect.html) helpful for getting the plugs out.