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3D Printed Window Switch Fix

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51K views 119 replies 44 participants last post by  jeffffej  
#80 · (Edited)
deleted and updated this post after I figured the issue. I'll just give the values here.

Here are the sizes I used in shape ways after switching the mm to inches.

Light Pipe X 30.95 mm Y 13.13 mm Z 6.35 mm?


The spring detent is coming up at X 4.57 mm Y 8.38 mm Z 13.62 mm. This didn't need converting.
 
#81 ·
mudder said:
The window switch parts require a rather expensive 3D printer to manufacture them accurately enough. Which process did you use? You might be able to file your specific parts to make them work. Another option would be to get the outer part printed slightly larger (e.g. 1%) and hope it still fits in the switch button. An easier option, however, is to get the parts printed on a higher quality machine. Back when I still sold this part, I used a $30,000 printer and didn't have the issues you described above... all my issues were on the customer side ;).
Click to expand...
There is a lot of talk about the switch not centering.

Mudder recommended increasing the size by 1%. I'm wondering if I should possibly order a second spring detent at make it 2-3% larger this way I can file it down to hopefully avoid the centering issue of the switch.

Does anyone know what part mudder is talking about when he says outer part? Is this the spring detent or the light pipe that should be ordered larger?
 
#82 · (Edited)
I opened my dash and got to the window switch to fix.

What is odd is if I move that lever up and down the window does not open or close. I hear a relay click when I move the switch but the window does not move.

The passenger window works fine, the car is ON.

I don't see how repairing the switch will do anything if the window is not functioning.



In the picture you can see the switch I circled on the left which controls the driver side window, this does not move the window up and down.

Image
 
#84 ·
Yes it seems the window switch is fine. The clear part of the switch was actually broke so I replaced that, but it was still intact enough to move the sliding button that controls the relays.

I wonder if the switch got stuck in the closed position and that wore out the motor with time. The switch was not able to really center itself so it would kind of move up and down.

There is actually a separate fuse for the driver side and passenger side windows, but they seem fine.

I used the 3d printed clear part and kept the other parts in the switch stock as they were not broken and put my dash back.

I will order a new motor and tear apart the door to see if its the motor.
 
#86 ·
My window also did the same thing before it broke, if I went all the way down it wouldn't go back up until some time had passed.

Now it is totally dead. The switch seemed to test out fine also by following the trouble shooting diagram to jump the wires connected to the switch to check if the window would go down.

I'm going to have to open up the door. I ordered a used power window motor from ebay.

I did repair the switch with the 3d light bar part as mine was broken. Even though the switch internal light bar was broken which caused the switch to easily move around, it did work. I could hear the relays clicking as I moved it up and down.

I have a nasty suspicion that the motor isn't the problem though.
 
#89 ·
My 3d window switch parts I ordered works.

The auto down feature works. Not sure why people had trouble.

The light shines though mine also.

Ordered parts through shape ways and everything works.

It could be possible that I only replaced the light pipe as that was the only thing broken on mine.

I did not replace the spring detent body, I kept the tiny white honda plastic one as it was not broken and figured why replace it as the 3d printed detent body seemed loose and didn't snap into place. I figured this may be the reason why people are having trouble with the auto down. Who knows, but I know my auto down doesn't work and I didn't replace the spring detent.

That being said I would just replace the light pipe if that is all that is broken and the stock white spring detent seems fine, this way your auto down may still work.
 
#90 ·
Just a warning to everyone.

If your switch is failing and becomes limp, your driver side motor is at risk of burning out. This has happened to me and someone else recently. I believe the window switch is easily stuck up and is constantly trying to close when the window switch becomes limp burning out the motor.

If your switch is limp and the window is going down by itself when you hit bumps and stuff, replace the switch ASAP or risk having to change out the driver side motor like I had to, and waste $100 bucks for the used part and hours messing around in the door because you were too lazy to fix it right away.
 
#92 · (Edited)
I would say easiest way to fix it is just order the 3d part. It takes over a month to get the part though.

Take out your switch and visually inspect which parts are broke, if its just the light pipe then just replace that, don't bother with the spring detent.

I would be surprised if the CRX switch was easy to convert over to it and use it with the insight. If that works post the results.
 
#94 · (Edited)
Just another tip, when I pulled my window switch to test it, I stuck volt meter probes in the connector. The probes were big enough to fit and stay held in place by forcing them in.

This caused my passanger side window to stop working, or was working intermittently until it finally failed.

Had to pull the passenger door open and figure out it was the connector, needed to pry back the pins to make a good connection. Everything is OK now, but wasted a lot of time for nothing.

Also be careful with the dash, make sure to watch the videos on how to remove it. I cracked mine initially when I changed out my bad trip button. Then the crack got worse when removing the dash to replace the switch, and finally broke out completely when fixing the passenger window the last time.

The good news is I can't see the crack while driving so I'll just live with it and put the pieces back in place.

This is a very real issue as the dash is so fragile and must be more fragile from age. Make sure to remove the steering column and lay it on the seat, very simple and pry carefully from the bottom. Go to harbor freight and get dash pry trim for less than $10 bucks also. https://www.harborfreight.com/trim-and-molding-tool-set-5-pc-64126.html

Image


Image
 
#99 ·
You only need the larger part in the more expensive clear SLA, the other part use the $6 dollar plastic. I did not even need to use the smaller part because my stock one was fine. The smaller part is actually white and no light can shine through it, so dont get that part in SLA, get the most robust cheap plastic.

Actually you dont need the larger part in clear, if you dont mind the light not shining through. You will never look for the light anyway as you know where your switch is.

Save the money if you want a cheap fix, it wont ever look stock anyway after this mod.
 
#102 ·
I'm confused. This is what I ordered, here is a copy and paste from my invoice.

and I got the clear larger plastic part.

5872960 - Spring Detent Body * Black Professional Plastic 1 $7.88 5872961 - Light Pipe * Smoothest Fine Detail Plastic 1 $7.88

Value $4.99 Sub-Total $20.75 Discount -$0.00 Tax $1.84 Order Total $22.59

I paid $7.88 and 7.88.

I would get the light pipe in the Smoothest Fine Detail Plastic if you want it to be clear.

I did a bit of research into this at the time, forgot most of it now, but I came up with those choices based on that research. My total was only $22.59.
 
#106 ·
My motor was also frozen, when the switch goes it must force the window to constantly go up or down and cause the motor to burn out.

My switch doesn't have the same nice feel but it works, and has held up for a while now.

Does your auto-down work? That is when you press the button hard it goes all the way down by itself.
 
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