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Grid charging, deep discharging

24K views 60 replies 14 participants last post by  troytempest  
#1 ·
Someone PM'd me about grid charging his pack. I responded with kind of a summary of what I think about that stuff these days, including a couple links to some underlying nut n' bolts. I thought it might be useful as a new thread, despite the constant drip of that kind of thing around here already. Mainly, there's a few ways I look at it that seem important to me but aren't usually represented in what people advise to others, such as the limits of grid charging-only, how a healthy pack should actually perform, and the function of deep discharging... Here's most of that response:

In general, I'm not nearly the fan of grid charging that most other IC'ers are. I don't think it does most of what people think it does. Here's a link to a thread where I've posted some graphic representations of the process, grid charging and grid charging + deep discharging. https://www.insightcentral.net/foru.../65322-graphic-illustrations-grid-charge-deep-discharge-process.html#post724378

I feel pretty confident about the general sweep of what's claimed there, though a lot of the specifics are out-dated... The graphics should help you wrap your brain around the bare 'mechanics' of charging and discharging a pack of cells in series... The gist of it is, simply, that if you need to revive or recondition your pack, a grid charge alone isn't going to do much...

As far as what your voltage readings say about the health of your pack? They don't say much of anything. The Insight NiMH cells will settle at a voltage around 1.318V at a wide variety of charge states and conditions. So, your pack voltage suggests just about that -- 159-160V / 120 cells=1.329V per cell. It just doesn't tell us much. We might be able to say that it's unlikely you have a totally failed cell...

You can't tell pack health very well unless you read and/or log pack voltages under load under various circumstances. For example, if you can bring state of charge down below 50% nominal, hit the pack with say 20 amps of assist, with the pack around 60 degrees F, and voltage stays above about 141V, your pack is probably pretty good... If you can bring charge state below 50% and still get about 4 seconds of about 80 amps of assist, at full throttle, your pack is probably pretty healthy... Anything less than these levels suggests some degree of... funk.

This is what's problematic with stuff you see/read at IC: no one looks closely enough at their pack performance to really know how they're actually performing. Most people are like, 'it doesn't neg recal' or 'there's no IMA light' - 'my pack is working great!' No, a great working pack has to hit certain metrics, certain benchmarks, in order to qualify as working great...

This is also what's insidious about the stock management and feedback about IMA functionality in the car - it's next to non-existent, you just don't know how well or bad the IMA is performing unless you dig in and take a closer look. The way the car manages the pack masks both poor management practices and poorly performing packs.

I also think the stock management causes at least some of the degradation/poor performance that creeps in seemingly fairly quickly... It charges too much, too often, too high. From my experimentation and observations over the... years, I'm coming to the conclusion that you almost can't force the pack to operate at too low a state of charge; i.e. the more you do/you can force the car to use lower charge states the better. The problem is, though, I think most packs are probably already too 'crudded-up' to get charge state very low and to have useful power/energy down there, so some initial reconditioning is needed...

Personally, I'm a proponent of 'ultra deep discharge' - very low current, prolonged, as disaggregated as possible (i.e. less than whole pack) discharging, followed by a grid charge. With this strategy I don't think it matters whether you grid charge first or not, as the load used is so small and you're preferably only dealing with at most 12 cells in series rather than 120, that cell reversal isn't an issue... Here's a link to some theory underlying this 'ultra-deep discharging' process: https://www.insightcentral.net/foru...m-1st-gen-discussion/81778-tinkering-non-working-ima-battery-8.html#post1206666


I am reading grid charging threads. I am wading thru the technological boilerplate of them.... I “might” be starting to get a small amount of it.... My charger is in, and on as of 9 this evening. The starting voltage was 159-160 at 299 ma. What does this say about the health of my battery which just sat idle for 4 1/2 weeks? The temperature here is about 45f.
 
#44 ·
@troytempest

You should fully charge the pack to balance the cells before deep discharging. i.e. Charge for 24hrs or so..
I would stop the discharge and do a proper charge for 24-30hrs.

Then do a full discharge until the bulb goes out.
That might take 36-48 hrs with a 40w bulb..

Then grid charge again for 24-30hrs.. Reset the car and see how the pack behaves.

If you want to do more than one discharge cycle you can do.
I would say a maximum of three at this time.

See attached documents.
 

Attachments

#48 ·
@troytempest

You should fully charge the pack to balance the cells before deep discharging. i.e. Charge for 24hrs or so..
I would stop the discharge and do a proper charge for 24-30hrs.

Then do a full discharge until the bulb goes out.
That might take 36-48 hrs with a 40w bulb..

Then grid charge again for 24-30hrs.. Reset the car and see how the pack behaves.

If you want to do more than one discharge cycle you can do.
I would say a maximum of three at this time.

See attached documents.
Excellent read and advice.

The only caution I would add is if you do a discharge soon after a normal grid charge is that you need to have a way to have the IMA battery cooling fan running while doing the discharge.

I did a test to see what my IMA battery temperature would do if the IMA fan was not running. I found that for 5 hours (from ~7 PM to midnight with the fan not running) after a full charge to 174 volts that the temperaure of the battery continued to rise.

Another point is that if you use a digital DVM, it needs to have a 4 digit display so you can read 1/10s of a volt change as the charge progresses. The reason is that after a charge rises to ~172 volts the rise in voltage slows to ~0.2 volt per HOUR at our low grid charge rate. This is normal. A 3 digit DVM will not show this slow rise in voltage.

I normally discharge my 10 year old Honda warranty replacement battery with two 40 watt bulbs (wired in series) to below 2 volts of the IMA battery and then leave the load connected overnight with one of the 40 watt bulbs as the load.

I have a chart on my website that shows the discharge currents vs voltage using various wattage bulbs and a resistor as the discharge load. As expected the resistor discharge current chart has a straight line discharge and the bulbs as the load, have a non-linear discharge curve due to the bulbs effective resistances changing with the voltage change applied to the load.

Click on the "CRX" area below this post to go to my V2 charger/discharger to read about my discharge method etc.
 
#45 ·
Thanks for the reply Peter.

I’d assumed that the pack was at full charge prior to charging because it measured 169v DC. Under the bonnet the only non-Japanese I can make out says 144v 😂

I think the seller may have charged the car prior to me collecting it and having it transported home, and I subsequently drove it perhaps 1km and then moved it around the garden before the IMAlight came on.

I’ve just been out and checked the voltage (whilst the 40w bulb was still glowing, although slightly dimmer) and I’m seeing 111v after discharging for 17.5 hours.

Should I abandon the discharge now, and plug the grid charger back in as you have said?

Many Thanks
Bob
 
#46 ·
@troytempest I would stop the discharge and charge now.

Find out what the IMA code is using the blink code method if you don't have a decent OBDII reader.
 
#47 ·
I cannot say this is the proper method, but this worked for me when I dragged my project out of the back yard.

12V battery was knackered so I had to find a replacement. The "correct" battery was much more expensive and not on the shelf at the parts store so I got the non-backwards model knowing I needed to make a trip to the wrecker to find a new battery cable and some ground straps from the engine to the chassis. I found a new strap with 2 wires that allowed me to connect directly to the engine block and the firewall

Making it to the yard took a few days, while it was apart I discharged the traction battery down to about 100V then charged at 180MA CC for about 24 hours. Pack voltage peaked at about 176V then dropped as it got into the balance stage, I let it run another ~6 hours after the voltage dropped. Rinse and repeat

Bolted everything up and Fanny's your Aunt!
 
#50 ·
I’d just like to Thank everybody for their comments, on a subject that you’ve probably covered far too many times in the past. I appreciate your help.

Just to bring you up to date on what’s happening, from 169v I started discharging with a single 40w bulb. Over the course of 17.5 hours, the voltage dropped to 111v, and at this point I put it back on charge using the already fitted grid charging setup (600mW at 90v)

I will leave it charging for 48 hours and then take another voltage reading.

The car is (apparently) a 2001 model CVT imported to the UK from Japan. I have managed to read the sticker on the side of the IMA battery casing and it appears to have been manufactured in 2000. All other stickers on the IMA pack and car are in Japanese so I guess it’s original. I haven’t removed the pack, so I’ve no idea if the sticks have been replaced or fiddled with over the years, but I’m not too phased about investigating further if the grid charging/discharging doesn’t pay off.

At this stage, I guess it’s fingers crossed 🤞🏻
Thanks again everybody 👍
 
#51 ·
I will leave it charging for 48 hours and then take another voltage reading.
48hrs is too long..
24-30hrs max.

Ignore the final charged voltage readings just use time as the factor..
 
#53 · (Edited)
And todays idiot award goes to……. (Drum roll)

I waited 30 hours to discover that although my IMA was on grid charge, it was switched off 🥲

I’d like to REALLY HOPE that it will only accept a charge when the pack is turned on? 🤞🏻🤞🏻🤞🏻??
(I put a meter on it after disconnecting power to the grid charger and was devastated to see 1.7v. It was only then that I noticed the master switch off, and after switching on I had 150v)

I’ve now flicked the master switch on and have just begun another 30 hour charge.
 
#55 ·
I know the grid charging/discharging debate has gone on forever, but just in case anybody is interested or wants to contribute, here is my progress so far. Remember I’ve only had the car a couple of weeks so I’m still learning 😬

Following my previous faux pas when I thought I was charging and wasn’t, I started charging again with the pack turned on this time.

A 24 hour charge (I couldn’t charge any longer) saw a charged voltage of 176.7v. I let it sit for about 10 mins and then started discharging with a 40w light bulb.

After 24 hours discharging, out of curiosity I took a voltage reading without disconnecting the bulb, and had a voltage of 155v.

Lamp is still burning bright so I will continue to discharge until it goes out, and then start to charge again.

🤞🏻
 
#56 ·
I let it sit for about 10 mins and then started discharging with a 40w light bulb.

After 24 hours discharging, out of curiosity I took a voltage reading without disconnecting the bulb, and had a voltage of 155v.

Lamp is still burning bright so I will continue to discharge until it goes out, and then start to charge again.

🤞🏻
I think 40w light bulb is too small at least at the beginning of discharge, imo. To discharge and shorten the time you can simply drive the car forcing assist then continue to a deep discharge with the light bulb. Whatever you do keep in mind that as simple as it looks it is very dangerous.
 
#57 · (Edited)
Driving the car isn’t an option at the moment because it’s not legal for the road here in the UK yet. This gives me the opportunity to do the charge/discharge whilst it tackle other smaller jobs. Finished so far are seam sealing upper rear panel joints to cure minor leaks and rear fog lamp by converting driver side reverse lamp. Still to do are, CVT fluid replacement with Honda fluid and complete brake system overhaul.

I do have a 150w incandescent bulb that I was tempted to use for discharging, but the general message I got when reading through the site was “low and slow”! I’ll have a rethink once I’ve completed one cycle.

Thanks for the info 👍
 
#59 ·
After three consecutive charge and discharge cycles, I gave the IMA battery one final 29 hour charge before reassembly and starting the car.

I’m over the moon to say that first impressions are that I have breathed some life back into the IMA and the car is running with full assistance and regen, as well as stop/start working. I couldn’t be happier, so thanks to everyone who commented or took an interest.

I found that with a 30 hour charge the battery showed 181.7v. To discharge I used a 40w bulb and it took approximately 60 hours for the bulb to finally go out with the voltage showing about 6v and rising immediately.

The car is not road legal yet, but I did take it for about a 4 mile drive through back lanes with a few hills, where I gave it the beans going up, and I guess it showed about 75% assistance with no effect on the battery. On the downgrade the regen kicked in and everything appears to be working well.

A couple more small jobs next week and I will be putting the car in for its MOT.

Thanks again 🙏
Bob

Image
 
#61 ·
Congratulations! It's always good to hear about repairs with happy endings especially with the IMA battery!
Hopefully it lasts.
Over the years on various forums I discovered that so many people ask for advice and then never ever return to say whether the advice helped or solved their problems. I’ve always found that infuriating as knowing the complete story could so easily help others in the future, and showing a bit of gratitude doesn’t hurt.

Anyway, I’m definitely a happy bunny at the moment, and fingers crossed will be going forward. The car is going to sit idle for a few days now, so it’ll be interesting to see if the IMA still looks good when I get back home.

🤞🏻👍