Additional Information: Just tried the starter cut relay for kicks.



I assume that the center relay (circled) is the starter cut relay. I switched it with the bottom relay (same size, different markings- .06t vs .06x) with no effect.

Hooked the test light up to the center relay slot. The two circled female connections for the relay lit up brightly when the key was turned to the on position. Guess I'll try to figure out if I can connect a jumper wire to the relay slot and see what happens.

 

Hahaha alright making progress still; when backprobing the starter relay it began to click while grounding at the blue/white A1 ECM wire. So I've grounded the A1 ECM connector directly to the chassis with a jumper, and now have power all the way to the BLK/RED wire coming out of the starter relay under the dash. Now I suppose I have a break somewhere between it and the starter solenoid because I am still not getting power at the solenoid. Still wondering what the problem is with the ECM ground.

^Results before grounding the BLUE/WHT wire. After grounding that wire I am now getting power at the BLK/RED wire when turning key to position III.


This is where I currently am:

Does anyone know where I can find a wiring diagram to trace how the BLK/RED wire connects to the starter solenoid?

 

Does anyone know where I can find a wiring diagram to trace how the BLK/RED wire connects to the starter solenoid?

Here's a spreadsheet of hyperlinked engine codes for the most part with some useful additional hyperlinked info like wiring diagrams and electrical locations.and links to stickies. Hope that helps.
Electronic Troubleshooting pdf.s are hard to search online so maybe download from the stickies at head of the forum and search for "obdII codes.pdf' as the index.

 

I'm now at the point where I've chased the white/black wire from the starter solenoid into the car. I believe it connects to a blue connector under the dash, and the mating connector has a black wire with thin yellow stripe and silver dots on it. This black/yellow wire looks like it goes to the back of the car, and possibly exits via the fuel pump cover.

The BLK/RED wire coming out of the Starter Cut Relay also connects to a BLK/YLW wire. I believe I chased this wire out of the car, where it exits into the drivers wheel well, and goes to the front driver corner under the hood to the fuel cut relay.

So any help would be greatly appreciated at this point. At least some progress was made. For some reason the ECM wasn't grounded; after grounding pin A1 at least the starter relay clicks. Now I just have to figure out why the starter solenoid is not getting power to the black/white wire. Possibly the ELD? Haven't found a testing procedure for that yet.

 

I've traced the solenoid wire to the fuel pump. The wire after the pump isn't getting power with key in position III. I've traced the wire after the starter relay to the fuel cut relay under the dash. I'm not sure how to test this; but I assume that if it was bad the car wouldn't have run when started by the IMA system. I tried a relay from under the dash in its place (no idea if same functional style) without change. I'm not exactly sure how to trace the wire from the fuel cut relay to the fuel pump


Currently this is my situation:

 

Applying 12V to the green/yellow Fuel Cut Relay gets a "click" from the relay.

Thanks AbCaRed, I have the downloaded PDF Manual from this site; unfortunately I don't think it supplies the information I'm looking for.

I'm assuming that there's a bigger cause which these little problems are stemming from. I'm not familiar with how the IMA/12V starting system interacts; I believe the IMA system normally shuts the 12V starter system off for daily driving. I'm guessing there's a problem with that switch which is causing my current no start (and I'm simply bypassing each step of this "shut down" process).

 

I'm assuming that there's a bigger cause which these little problems are stemming from.

Could be mice as an afterthought, they've been known to chew wires in the IMA/IPU system.

 

Just to cover the basics... you're holding the key in the start position for at least ten seconds, right? It's usually quite a while before the car decides to give up on the IMA system and start from the 12v.

Also, because it is possible to push-start a manual, I assume the only thing required to make the car run normally is to have the key in the run position and get the engine turning. I don't think the starter is more complex than "apply 12v and spin", so I assume that would work.

 

Thanks Mario, that's what I was assuming about the direct voltage. Yeah, I've tried the 30 second key hold, the quick cycle, the BCM disconnected, IMA switch on/off, praying to Soichiro himself

Good point about the mice, I did find one mouse dropping while checking ground 101 & 102 on the engine block, but have yet to find any chewed on wires/wirelooms or nests etc.

It was also involved in a serious accident with a previous owner ~8-10 years ago (I believe passenger side) but I haven't experienced any other adverse effects from it (car tracks straight, tires wear evenly, etc.) Right now I have the interior out and everything looks pretty decent, no paint color changes, ugly welds, etc.

 

Thought I had already posted this; problem solved! PGM-FI Main relay wasn't grounded (my fault)

 

I am having a similar issue with my G1. What is the PGM-FI Main relay and where is it located?

Thanks for taking the time to summarize your efforts. Very helpful!

 

Was your starter turning or was it not making any noise?

 

Bump! I would like to know also. I am having a no crank no start issue with my stock G1. I can hear the fuel pump run for 2 seconds and that is all I can hear. I do see the illuminated green key on the dash.

 

There is the blue PGM-FI relay under the dash. I think its held in by a 10mm. You can let it hang for testing. Require some gymnastics to get to but not impossible.