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ambient lighting

14K views 33 replies 11 participants last post by  Foresight  
#1 ·
So I put a blue LED in my dome light today, and it looks cool.

Also, my LED footwell lighting kit arrived in the mail, and I went to my mechanic to consult. He showed me where the interior fuse box is and advised me to buy a cheap 12v current checker thingy. Tomorrow I'm going to find out which wire controls the headlights so that he can splice it and attach my footwell LEDs to it. We're not going to connect it into fuse because I want it to turn on/off along with the headlights.

It will have a dinky little on/off button as well so I can turn the footwell lights off independently, but I'd rather put a more substantial switch next to the button that turns off the Traction Control (EX model)... you know, there are 2 empty slots next to it. Does anyone know where or what size or model or whatever a switch I can buy to use there??

By the way, what I think would be coolest would be if I can put in both green and blue LEDs in the footwell and somehow make them fluctuate in tandem with the speedometer. Any ideas if this is possible?
 
#2 ·
So I put a blue LED in my dome light today, and it looks cool.

By the way, what I think would be coolest would be if I can put in both green and blue LEDs in the footwell and somehow make them fluctuate in tandem with the speedometer. Any ideas if this is possible?
What were the final parts you used for the dome light? I was debating on doing the same to change it to either red or blue, but I haven't looked into it.

Changing the foot lights based on speed? That seems rather distracting, it might be cool to run them into the back so people behind you can see weird green and blue lights and wonder what the heck those mean, then everyone would you when you're being rgeen and when you're not.. :)
 
#3 ·
Actually, the dome light turned out to be simple even for me (I'm totally mechanically stupid). That is, once Cobb pointed me to the model and size of LED to buy (see the previous post somewhere in these forums). I just bought a blue bulb, and then I popped the dome light cover off using a pocket knife (have to wedge it between the clear cover and the gray plastic trim, NOT between the fabric ceiling and the gray trim like I started to do (lol, I TOLD you I am mechanically stupid)). The bulb is then just wedged in between 2 silver prongs (not screwed in).

I ordered 1 red and 1 green LED bulb at the same time so that I can change the color if I get bored with blue (the bulbs are only a couple dollars each). I also ordered 3 total blue bulbs, so that I can put one in each front map light as well if I want to go totally blue, but for now, I'm leaving them white so that if someone needs to read something, they won't be irritated with the lack of normal light.... on the other hand, it's usually just me, so what the heck, I'll probably go all blue! lol

But first, I'm working on the blue footwell LEDs. I'm going to plug in the lights to the fuse just to gauge how bright/dim they are (the kit has 4 total, 2 little LEDs for each footwell side). I *think* it'll be fairly dim with just 2 on each side, so I don't think I'll need a dimmer, but if it turns out to be too bright, I'll put just 1 on each footwell, and then run the other 2 to the back seat footwells.

I can't figure out a way to make the colors change in tandem with the speedometer. But, I think I can add both green and blue by installing green right alongside the blue ones. Then link them both to the headlight control wire, but attach a little on/off switch to each so that I can have just one color on at a time. But first, I think I better just get the one color set up.
 
#4 ·
I saw those festoon lights in the post from Cobb but I was unable to fidn them locally except at the dealer in white (for $5 each). :-S I'll have to grab some from his link as well. I'm not large machine inclined (aka I don't do oil chages, drill metal, etc) but small eletronics, I'm usually much better at, I had a car-puter in my last car that did the music and GPS, with a velcro harness.. :)

I was thinking you might have a variable voltage light for the speedometer, if you do find the feed for the speedometer check for a circuit to see wher ethe lights are hooke dup what it coudl be doign is feeding it 6, 9, 12 volt for the different colours.
 
#5 ·
VERY frustrated

OK, so trying to locate the wire for the headlights under the dash turned out to be horribly frustrating :mad: I spent at least 2 hours upside down with my back arched awkwardly and my hands constantly drained of blood. I still couldn't see well and kept banging my head on the brake pedal... getting my fingers up inside was damn near impossible, and how am I supposed to puncture the wire shields with the Tester without brining my other hand in to hold each wire... and how the heck am I supposed to even access each wire when they're bundled together by the dozens?! All the while that damn DING DING DING of having the parking lights on while the engine is off almost drove me mad!

The fuse box is completely foreign to me. I saw in the manual that it shows Main Headlight in slot #28, and I counted over and found that slot, but there's now wires plugged into it, just a block "20" over it. When I touched the Tester to it, it lit up, but it didn't go out when I turned the parking lights off. I don't really know how all those fuses work anyway, I just thought each slot would have the corresponding wire plugged into it.

I'll do some googling tonight to see if I can figure anything out. Then maybe I'll try going to the Honda dealership. Or I could just settle for plugging the lights directly into fuses and turning the ambient lights on manually instead of them coming on with the headlights. :-?
 
#6 ·
Ouch, hope you had better luck today. have you considered asking someone on here witheh service manual to tell you the harness and cable to replace? Your alterantive I was thinking might be to run it from the accessory port? It's always powered while the car is and turns off when the car is off.
 
#9 ·
Man this site is slow, why is it only half the page develops, then it pauses for 7 minutes?

Anyway, I used the acc fuse and an add a circuit fuse thingie. This way its powered with the key. One of my blue led strips worked for 15 minutes and I no longer have the package or reciept, so I just moved the working one to the center.

Not sure about making them flash blue/green with the dash. That would be cool, but too difficult and costly fast. Maybe you can get some that change or just a blue and green strip and a controller to randonly switch them over.

My camera is too dull to catch my lights, so I had to video it.

YouTube - Under Dash Glow

Lguy feel free to message me.
 
#10 ·
Thanks guys. Nameless, I had to run to work and no time to read yet, but I look forward to reading what you sent.

Cobb, your upgraded speakers/amp sound good. Your base is really thumping - the subwoofer startled my puppy that was sitting next to my speaker's subwoofer when played your video, lol. Your light kit is a tube. My kit came with just 4 tiny LEDs at the end of some wires.

Anyway, back to work...
 
#11 ·
I've been trying to figure out where the wires are and spots where I can place wires to run a small RV-battery in the hatch for recharging some of my electronic gear (looking at solar panels as well). Trying to figure out the alternator amps.

I've taken the dome light cover off and taken a look at a few things before ordering my LEDs (I wanted to order some for the cargo area as well, it looks like you can if you want run the foot well lights from the dome lights (after the switch) the proceedure is pretty straight forward. If you unscrew it you can run wire from that along the frame to the front and then down to the well.

Have a look at the instructions from installing the day/night mirror from college hill, I know it doesn't turn on with the head lights but it's another alternative without tapping the accessory port.

http://www.collegehillshonda.com/instructions/insight/2010/daynightmirror.pdf
 
#12 ·
Well I have ambient blue footwell lights now :)

I ended up going to an auto electronics and audio shop, and they did the job for me. They set it up so that the lights are linked to the dome light so that when I push the unlock button on remote, the footwell lights come on along with the dome light. They lights then turn off when I shut the door.

I also had them put a master switch in so that I can, additionally, turn the lights on whenever I want.

I'm super happy with this set up - linking them to headlights would've been a bad idea (unless we used a dimmer). They look great. The only downside is that they used a relay, and because the dome light gets ongoing signals after the door shuts, so the relay vibrates for a second or two.

When I finish my steering wheel wrap, I plan to take pics and post up here.
 
#15 ·
I also had them put a master switch in so that I can, additionally, turn the lights on whenever I want.
Were you able to put the switch next to one of the empty modules next to the stability control On/Off button? My buddy was telling me that he could most likely do that for me.

Also, how much did it cost you to get all that done.

Thanks a lot for your post! It's been extremely valuable to me as I upgrade my insight :)
 
#13 ·
I mentioned in the HID thread that I replaced the puny cargo area light.

Well, it turns out that the warm white LED wasn't much brighter, so I got the 15-LED monster in the same color. :D

Much much better. Still dim (mainly because of the lamp's position), but better than squinting in the dark.
 
#17 ·
For those that want an OEM look and don't mind $75 or so, look into the Honda Fit interior illumination kit. It covers both wells and has a switch that mounts next to the VSA button. I'm looking at it and I think it will adapt to the I2. I plan to take the bottom of the dash apart in a couple of weekends to confirm. It's more than DIY but definitely cheaper than ordering OEM accessories from abroad.
 
#19 ·
If one wants to keep the OEM appearance, it would be a good option. For $30-40, an OEM look with the switch beside the VSA switch is worth it to me at least and I won't have to worry about wiring them up, the LEDs failing, etc. Just easier for me at least.
 
#20 ·
I'm curious if the interior lighting from the Crosstour would work in the Insight v.2.

The switch looks to be the same type. Question is if the harness has a place that'll take the plug for the harness connection.

here's a link to the diagram of the parts in question.
 
#21 ·
I installed by LED strips this week. During the install I discovered that there are pre-molded round clip in spots that will work with the ambient lighting kit from the Fit or the 2012 Civic. Those OEM kits cost over $70, definitely the most expensive option with a much more ambient (dim) output. Those aren't as bright but it's an option. I'll post up pics on my 9-LED strips I placed on each side. They have connectors to allow the panels to be removed and have a much better spread of light than the OEM kits Honda offers (almost too bright).

I ended up not going with the Honda OEM kit adapted from the Fit b/c it was just too dim in my opinion and offered nothing for the center console, just the footwells.
 
#22 ·
Did anyone have issues with the add a fuse things? Since Honda's using low profile fuses the Bussman mini add a fuse unit I bought is a tight fit at best and I'd rather not tap or splice OEM wiring. Right now the lights are always on, tied into the socket on the back of the 12v accessory plug in the dash.

The LED strips are also kind if bright. Any ideas to dim them down?

Thanks!
 
#23 ·
Nope. I found it plugged right in. I have mines on with the key as its in the acc fuse. I guess you could put some electric tape over them or parts?

Another idea is to make an accessory plug and use the accessory outlet.
 
#24 ·
With the bussman HHH add a fuse, I dremeled down the prongs some then shaved down the black plastic portion a bit and it fit into the low profile fuse slots in the civic great. So far no issues so I'll probably do it for the I2 as well.
 
#26 ·
I put purple footwell lights in mine and used the glovebox lamp wire as the power......
Tap in before the switch for the power and any metal on the car can be used as ground....
It's cool that they "flash' when the doors are locked/unlocked with the remote fob..
 
#28 ·
I just changed the 3.4 W peanut glove box light lamp for a 1.5 W LED one that gives at least 3 times as much light - and it is blueish white instead of stale orange.
Not that I need it - everything I keep in there is black - but I had some spare LEDs lying around anyway after replacing them with better ones from miniinthebox.

Funny thing, until a few days ago I did not know I had a glove box light! I mean, I never saw it burn. I saw some posts about it but thought that would just be on the American version...
Driving home in the dark the other day I opened the glove box and felt the rectangular retainer with the lamp in the middle and the switch. It had to be a lamp. But it did not light up.

Guessed it would be broken. Ah, I got dozens of them lying around, spares plenty. But try as I might, I could not get it out with my big hands and stubby fingers.

So I dropped the box, unscrewed the retainer and took it inside on the dinner table and finalle freed the lamp. It looked alright.
Tested it with a 9 Volt battery. Worked fine.
Tested the unit as a whole. Worked fine.
Took my ole Soviet bakelite analog multimeter and tested the lead. Zero. Damn.

A fuse? Mmm, no specific fuse for the glove box.
Am I the only one on the planet to struggle with this I thought. Maybe not; go check InsightCentral. And there it was (thanks Cobb!) it only works when the parking lights are on...!
Flip, burn. Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh... :D
I use the parking lights all the time - by day. But the glove box light is so dim that it is almost impossible to see it burn then. No wonder I missed it!

So I changed a bulb I did not know I had and certainly don't need for a LED that hardly uses less power and went on to write a bulky post about it. I'm so worthless :cool: