I recently installed a Rostra cruise control on my 2000 Insight. I started with the same resources that everyone else turns to:
InsightCentral.net - Honda Insight Modifications - Cruise Control 2
InsightCentral.net - Honda Insight Modifications - Cruise Control 1
While these walkthroughs were invaluable, the Rostra kit has changed a bit over the years and the instructions were not idiot proof … at least not when faced with this idiot. Hopefully the following will be a useful update for others.
Ordering the Kit
I ordered the following part numbers from Brandon Distributing (877-402-3944) Brandon Distributing, Inc. - Accessories for your Car, Truck, SUV & RV :
250-1223
250-1483
250-4325
Joe Brandenburg was very helpful and the total cost came to $262.95.
Opening the Boxes
The basic components are easy to identify. The intimidating part comes when one looks at the baggies full of tiny parts. Know this up front: lots of these bits and pieces are not used.
Under the Hood
After you install the cable bracket and throttle adapter per the linked instructions, you need to prepare the cruise module’s throttle cable for use with the snap-in adapter (G-17). In order to use it you need to add threads to the throttle cable. Use one of the small lock nuts that comes with the kit (G-15) and a box end wrench to score about six inches of threads on the cable. Remove the lock nut and then thread on the snap-in adapter about half way up the newly scored throttle cable with the top of the pyramid pointing towards the end of the throttle cable. Next you need to prepare the end of the throttle cable to attach to the throttle adapter. The linked instructions are very good, but the current version of the kit is a little different. First, you do not need to use the bead chain on this version of the control unit as it automatically compensates for slack. The eyelet connector (G-8 ), one bead connector (G-4) and a cotter pin (G-16) are the only parts you need to attach the cruise control’s throttle cable to the throttle adapter in the current version of the kit. Many of the orphaned bits and pieces come from this step.
After the throttle cable is ready, snap the adapter (G-17) in to the cable guide. The eyelet connector should slip over the throttle adapter easily; in fact, the eyelet is pretty loose on the adapter. Before you install the cotter pin, make sure that the cable does not have too much slack. The goal is to have the same amount of slack as engine’s throttle cable. The slack is adjusted by varying the position of the snap-in connector on the throttle cable through trial and error. I started out with the snap-in connector threaded about three inches up on the throttle and had move it down another half of a inch to get the desired tension. Finish by inserting and securing the cotter pin on the throttle adapter.
After you mount the cruise control module (I used the supplied bracket; electrolysis be damned … I’m a rebel like that), and attach the ground wire and plug in the wiring harness, you are basically finished under the hood. If you haven’t already had a beer, now is a good time to get one.
Under the Dash
Per the linked instructions, start by removing the grommet on the heater control cable and running the two four wire connectors that you’ve removed from the wiring harness through this hole from the inside of the car to the engine bay. This is a very frustrating process. Take your time.
On my MT Insight, I had to install a clutch switch. The same quirk as noted in the instructions still exists on the latest kit in that you need to cut the two-prong connector from the switch and then connect the violet wire to one of the wires and the then tap into the brake light negative wire (green/white) with the other. I had to add some wire to the clutch switch in order to reach the brake light negative wire. The red wire from the harness then taps into the brake light positive wire (white/green).
I used the fuse for the accessory plug to tap for power (brown wire with the spade end on the wiring harness). I then tapped that same brown wire with the brown wire from the RF control. I made this tap after the in-line fuse.
The blue wire still isn’t used. I attached it to ground along with the ground wire from the RF control.
The gray VSS wire is still attached to the blue/white wire on the 31 pin blue connector under the passenger side floor. This connector is towards the outside (right) of the car. Unplug it and cut away some of the insulation to get enough slack to use one of the Scotch connectors (G-22).
On my version of the RF control there is a two-prong plug that I didn’t use. There is also a plug on the wiring harness in the engine bay that I didn’t use. Just leave them hanging; the system works fine without connecting them to anything.
Hope this helps.
InsightCentral.net - Honda Insight Modifications - Cruise Control 2
InsightCentral.net - Honda Insight Modifications - Cruise Control 1
While these walkthroughs were invaluable, the Rostra kit has changed a bit over the years and the instructions were not idiot proof … at least not when faced with this idiot. Hopefully the following will be a useful update for others.
Ordering the Kit
I ordered the following part numbers from Brandon Distributing (877-402-3944) Brandon Distributing, Inc. - Accessories for your Car, Truck, SUV & RV :
250-1223
250-1483
250-4325
Joe Brandenburg was very helpful and the total cost came to $262.95.
Opening the Boxes
The basic components are easy to identify. The intimidating part comes when one looks at the baggies full of tiny parts. Know this up front: lots of these bits and pieces are not used.
Under the Hood
After you install the cable bracket and throttle adapter per the linked instructions, you need to prepare the cruise module’s throttle cable for use with the snap-in adapter (G-17). In order to use it you need to add threads to the throttle cable. Use one of the small lock nuts that comes with the kit (G-15) and a box end wrench to score about six inches of threads on the cable. Remove the lock nut and then thread on the snap-in adapter about half way up the newly scored throttle cable with the top of the pyramid pointing towards the end of the throttle cable. Next you need to prepare the end of the throttle cable to attach to the throttle adapter. The linked instructions are very good, but the current version of the kit is a little different. First, you do not need to use the bead chain on this version of the control unit as it automatically compensates for slack. The eyelet connector (G-8 ), one bead connector (G-4) and a cotter pin (G-16) are the only parts you need to attach the cruise control’s throttle cable to the throttle adapter in the current version of the kit. Many of the orphaned bits and pieces come from this step.
After the throttle cable is ready, snap the adapter (G-17) in to the cable guide. The eyelet connector should slip over the throttle adapter easily; in fact, the eyelet is pretty loose on the adapter. Before you install the cotter pin, make sure that the cable does not have too much slack. The goal is to have the same amount of slack as engine’s throttle cable. The slack is adjusted by varying the position of the snap-in connector on the throttle cable through trial and error. I started out with the snap-in connector threaded about three inches up on the throttle and had move it down another half of a inch to get the desired tension. Finish by inserting and securing the cotter pin on the throttle adapter.
After you mount the cruise control module (I used the supplied bracket; electrolysis be damned … I’m a rebel like that), and attach the ground wire and plug in the wiring harness, you are basically finished under the hood. If you haven’t already had a beer, now is a good time to get one.
Under the Dash
Per the linked instructions, start by removing the grommet on the heater control cable and running the two four wire connectors that you’ve removed from the wiring harness through this hole from the inside of the car to the engine bay. This is a very frustrating process. Take your time.
On my MT Insight, I had to install a clutch switch. The same quirk as noted in the instructions still exists on the latest kit in that you need to cut the two-prong connector from the switch and then connect the violet wire to one of the wires and the then tap into the brake light negative wire (green/white) with the other. I had to add some wire to the clutch switch in order to reach the brake light negative wire. The red wire from the harness then taps into the brake light positive wire (white/green).
I used the fuse for the accessory plug to tap for power (brown wire with the spade end on the wiring harness). I then tapped that same brown wire with the brown wire from the RF control. I made this tap after the in-line fuse.
The blue wire still isn’t used. I attached it to ground along with the ground wire from the RF control.
The gray VSS wire is still attached to the blue/white wire on the 31 pin blue connector under the passenger side floor. This connector is towards the outside (right) of the car. Unplug it and cut away some of the insulation to get enough slack to use one of the Scotch connectors (G-22).
On my version of the RF control there is a two-prong plug that I didn’t use. There is also a plug on the wiring harness in the engine bay that I didn’t use. Just leave them hanging; the system works fine without connecting them to anything.
Hope this helps.
