I've been wanting to get lithium someday. One of the things that stops me is that the higher cell count packs aren't done yet and when I do it I want to do it big. Peter is working on 96 cells at the moment which presumably would have the most horsepower which is my main want over capacity or really any other factor besides reliability.
Being in the southwest the meanwell is non functional until the car cools down about 4 months of the year minimum. The dc/dc has a much higher operating temperature envelope but it has voltage limitations compared to a meanwell.
Would there be a way to have the pack running at a low voltage state like how Peter is looking at 48 cell while the pack is hot and having it use dc/dc and then flip a switch when either the weather has cooled down or you've been driving it enough that you've gotten everything cooled down and then go to 96? I figure if it is at all possible that 48 and 96 make the most sense as they're evenly divisible so the switch would just split the pack in half and also switch which dc/dc it was using. There would probably also have to be something in the circuit to keep what the computers see voltage wise the same so it doesn't upset the ima system.
The simpler possibility would just be running a larger under hood battery so that way the car has plenty of power until the meanwell starts pumping out some juice. I'm not really sure how many amps the car draws worst case though which would be headlights on, ac on, fan full blast. That's why I'm wondering about the switch. I don't know how long a car could handle not having the dc/dc on.
Being in the southwest the meanwell is non functional until the car cools down about 4 months of the year minimum. The dc/dc has a much higher operating temperature envelope but it has voltage limitations compared to a meanwell.
Would there be a way to have the pack running at a low voltage state like how Peter is looking at 48 cell while the pack is hot and having it use dc/dc and then flip a switch when either the weather has cooled down or you've been driving it enough that you've gotten everything cooled down and then go to 96? I figure if it is at all possible that 48 and 96 make the most sense as they're evenly divisible so the switch would just split the pack in half and also switch which dc/dc it was using. There would probably also have to be something in the circuit to keep what the computers see voltage wise the same so it doesn't upset the ima system.
The simpler possibility would just be running a larger under hood battery so that way the car has plenty of power until the meanwell starts pumping out some juice. I'm not really sure how many amps the car draws worst case though which would be headlights on, ac on, fan full blast. That's why I'm wondering about the switch. I don't know how long a car could handle not having the dc/dc on.
