[ericbecky]

Looking good.
Especially nice to see the Hasport mount.

 

[Mattl92]

Glad you got it in. Looking forward to more of your progress.

This may sound silly, but is there an easy way to tell where all the bolts that came with the mounts go? Unless maybe it becomes a lot more obvious with an actual engine and transmission sitting infront of you, but when I was looking at my mounts and the bag of bolts I more or less was like this /forums/images/smilies/confused.gif

Edit: I mean as in which bolt goes to what mount.

 

[BongoBennie]

I'm happy to FINALLY see the car coming together!!

 

[Ecky]

I'm happy to FINALLY see the car coming together!!

Me too. Takes time to do it right, I suppose.

 

[BongoBennie]

Me too. Takes time to do it right, I suppose.

It's a LOT more than your average swap, plus the Hasport mounts were key...... good thing the Accord case solution worked in your favor, I just found a buddy who has one (accord case) I need to pick up although I'm still getting My L15 swap done and need to focus.... headed out to garage at this moment, time to get these aluminum corrosion buckets back on the road!

 

[Ecky]

 

[Makitadiesel]

Of course I need commentary:

1. What accessory belt did you go with?

2. How did you mate the AC lines?

3. Exhaust details?

All for now. Thanks.

Mak

 

[Ecky]

Of course I need commentary:

1. What accessory belt did you go with?

2. How did you mate the AC lines?

3. Exhaust details?

All for now. Thanks.

Mak

1) I'll get back to you on the belt. I ended up needing to get a different one as my accessories were very slightly different than your typical K swap. Not sure if it's a normal Honda belt or not.

3) I'm following ProAweMike's lead on the exhaust. I'll poke around for my orders and get back to you on that too. Offhand I remember the resonator is a Vibrant 1411.

2)

The other one was able to be bent into place.

 

[Ecky]

TSX motor has a returnless fuel system. Insight manual has a return fuel system. Choices are to use a fuel rail with a return, plus a regulator, or to use a regulator with a return. I chose the latter to keep the OEM fuel rail, and used an AEM universal fuel regulator.

 

[Kydrosis]

Hey Ecky,
I'm curious where you have placed the sub woofer now that you changed the box up.
Also, did you follow any specific thread when you replaced the DC-DC setup?

Your project looks awesome!

 

[Makitadiesel]

I was going to ask how you planned to hook up the EVAP purge canister valve to the factory Insight system. The RSX throttle body has the valve on top of the TB. The Accord TB has it located elsewhere. Haven't researched the Insight system fully but I'd prefer not to have it capped (excessive tank pressure) or unhooked and loose (venting to atmosphere, fumes, etc)

Mak

 

[Ecky]

https://youtube.com/watch?v=47KExOLzKoY&feature=youtu.be

 

[Ecky]

I was going to ask how you planned to hook up the EVAP purge canister valve to the factory Insight system. The RSX throttle body has the valve on top of the TB. The Accord TB has it located elsewhere. Haven't researched the Insight system fully but I'd prefer not to have it capped (excessive tank pressure) or unhooked and loose (venting to atmosphere, fumes, etc)

Mak

Right now it's capped but it's on my list.

 

[Makitadiesel]

Right now it's capped but it's on my list.

A further review confirms why I was confused. The K20 has the purge valve on the TB while the K24 has it on the side underneath the cam sensors. I'm running a Type S TB so I have a redundant with no home. My TB adapter is also subpar so I may swap it all out for Accord cable and have less to deal with.

Loving the video posts btw. Pure fun.

Mak

 

[Ecky]

I feel like my thread has been light on details and pictures for a little while now, so hoping to correct that.

Got my A/C working.

Pin A27 (blu/blk) on the Insight ECU is "AC ON", which is 12v that passes in series through the climate control and then pressure switch (which regulates A/C line pressure). This is supposed to go into the ECU, which can then decide whether or not to pass on that 12v through pin A17 (red) to the A/C clutch relay.

On the RSX (from which I took my ECU), pin E18 is the clutch output, so straightforward enough, just connect Insight harness wire A27 to RSX ECU pin E18 and the ECU should be able to turn the A/C compressor on and off.

The RSX, however, does not have a dumb 12v signal for A/C, but instead uses a multiplexer for input. Luckily KPro (aftermarket ECU chip) allows reassigning inputs, and one common way to work around this is to reassign the VTEC Pressure Switch (ECU B9, blu/blk) which is not used in JDM motors to an A/C input. Amusingly, the wire colors are the same for VTP on the RSX and AC ON on the Insight harness, so it's blu/blk to blu/blk.

 

[Ecky]

Unfortunately, for whatever reason it didn't work. The ECU is not detecting an input toggle and isn't activating the clutch out. Still going to need to troubleshoot. So, I just bypassed the ECU altogether, the "AC ON" wire to the A/C clutch relay wire.

The only downside to this I can see is that the A/C clutch will still engage even if the engine is off. KPro isn't smart enough yet to up engine idle when A/C toggles, otherwise that would be a possible disadvantage too.

From there, it was just a matter of getting the Accord A/C compressor I used connected to the wiring harness. The Accord uses a 3 pin connector with two grounds, whereas the Insight harness for A/C uses a 1-pin for power and relies on engine ground straps for grounding. I cut the Accord connector off and soldered the wire from my Insight compressor, and viola! I have air conditioning again.

Here's a picture of the otherwise stock Insight A/C system on the Acura TSX K24 engine:

 

[Ecky]

While I was at it, I installed a Dakota Digital SGI-8 E tach converter, which corrected my tachometer reading 33% high with no apparent latency. Following the wiring diagram above, the tach signal I needed to interrupt is E26 from the RSX ECU and is also conveniently the same color as the tach signal on the Insight harness.

Still need to sort out the temperature gauge. I suspect the sensor is just a varistor, but the RSX sensor uses a different resistance so the Insight gauge jumps from "low" to "overheating" a few minutes into my drive.

 

[Ecky]

Beyond that, I installed a new knock sensor (from K-Tuned) so I can more safely play with engine parameters.

Exposed underbody, need to redo my belly pan!

Another shot of the engine in the bay:

 

[Ecky]

While the weather was nice last weekend so I put the interior of the car back together a bit and gave it a bath. Not too shabby for 250k miles.

Camera-mirrors are going back on soon!

I find it helps very much for me to keep my car clean, it seems to affect how positively I feel about it.

 

[Ecky]

Since I took the motor out, my air pump has been missing. I've been driving the car around and just assuming the tires still had a lot of air in them, because hey, I always put 45+ PSI in them. The pump turned up yesterday though, and I found I had TEN PSI in one of my tires, and all of them were below 30, which might have contributed to why my fuel economy has been relatively bad - less than 40.

The other part of that has been idling and messing with engine tuning.

I spent some time last weekend getting cruise control installed, and woe is anyone else who ever has to work on any of the electrical systems in this car who doesn't remember what I've done. I'm 95% done tying my old Rostra unit into the S2000-RSX clockspring and steering wheel button combination I cobbled together.

Ended up tossing out the engine tune I was working on and started over. So far I've spent the last few days taking the highway route to work and holding various throttle positions (sometimes causing me to rapidly accelerate from 45 to 75) to collect data points on how far the ECU has to correct the fuel maps to get to 14.7:1 AFR. Right now I have all load and RPM below VTEC engagement set to 30 degrees intake cam advance and I'm adding and subtracting fuel to get the trims down to 0%. Next I'll do 20, 40, 10 and 0 degrees to get a completely correct fuel map for all possible cam positions, to the nearest 10 degrees, then interpolate them. Once that's done, I'll start playing with lean burn, but I don't want to start leaning things out until I have my fuel maps correct( which scale with target AFR) as I don't want AFR swinging wildly whenever I move the gas pedal.

So far I've discovered the car does not handle super low RPM with 30 degrees of advance - it stumbles quite a bit in some areas. However, I'm also finding patches where fuel usage (and power) are considerably lower. My hypothesis is that these are areas where volumetric efficiency is very low and/or I'm getting exhaust gases pulled back into the cylinder. If I find and select FOR these areas at part throttle operation, I can get engine load up.