-Where can i purchase this Mike Lewin's front lower control arm ball joint adapters?
Ecky's consolidated K24 swap
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Thanks for the fast reply!
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While I was at it, I installed a Dakota Digital SGI-8 E tach converter, which corrected my tachometer reading 33% high with no apparent latency. Following the wiring diagram above, the tach signal I needed to interrupt is E26 from the RSX ECU and is also conveniently the same color as the tach signal on the Insight harness.
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Still need to sort out the temperature gauge. I suspect the sensor is just a varistor, but the RSX sensor uses a different resistance so the Insight gauge jumps from "low" to "overheating" a few minutes into my drive.
I found from these forums (can't remember which) that a company called Modifry (modifry.com) has solutions for swapping the s2000 cluster into various Hondas. I got the AP1 ECT2 module and it works. Still have to program it in for a bit of accuracy, but it works. Lights up 2 bars at startup and 4 bars at 175-180, But he included instructions on how to edit the software.While I was at it, I installed a Dakota Digital SGI-8 E tach converter, which corrected my tachometer reading 33% high with no apparent latency. Following the wiring diagram above, the tach signal I needed to interrupt is E26 from the RSX ECU and is also conveniently the same color as the tach signal on the Insight harness.
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Still need to sort out the temperature gauge. I suspect the sensor is just a varistor, but the RSX sensor uses a different resistance so the Insight gauge jumps from "low" to "overheating" a few minutes into my drive.
Hope this helps.
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That's pretty cool
I actually used the Modifry unit myself to get a 100% working gauge cluster. I've been updating my thread on ecomodder more frequently than here, but it's far less consolidated.
Honda Insight w/Acura TSX engine - Ecomodding - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum - EcoModder.com
Lately I'm seriously considering doing a K-series conversion to my Insight. My logic: at some point the IMA battery will need to be replaced. If I
ecomodder.com
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I have a couple questions and an observation.
Observation: 04 RSX 5th gear shift sleeve has internal teeth, One end of the teeth is smooth and the other notched. See attached.
If someone places that sleeve on the mainshaft upside down, it will slip out of 5th on a 5-speed. I can't remember which tranny you actually used, but if you used that sleeve out of either an accord or a RSX, it won't work for a 6th add-on because it was never intended to shift into ANY gear because there wasn't any above 5th. Again, I don't know what you have in your car, but this sleeve will jump out of gear.
How do I know? I got in a hurry. ADHD. I compared this to other sleeves and they all had notches on both ends of those internal teeth.
Question: You said elsewhere: "Unfortunately, for whatever reason it didn't work. The ECU is not detecting an input toggle and isn't activating the clutch out. Still going to need to troubleshoot. So, I just bypassed the ECU altogether, the "AC ON" wire to the A/C clutch relay wire." Are you saying you connected the wire from Insight ECU A27 to RSX ECU E18?
Question 2: Does the FCD work after the swap? One pic shows 150mpg. So does mine. Does it keep a running mpg calc?
Thanks
Hey tekcajwolley, great tip I'll check it out. I never would have thought to check that. My assumption would be that the TSX gearbox would have had all original parts in it but who knows when you're dealing with secondhand stuff.
Regarding the A/C clutch, yeah that's how I wired it. I never got it working right and my thought is that I probably have a bad input on my ECU.
FCD does not work. However, I built an MPGuino and put it in front of the FCD.
![82807]()
Regarding the A/C clutch, yeah that's how I wired it. I never got it working right and my thought is that I probably have a bad input on my ECU.
FCD does not work. However, I built an MPGuino and put it in front of the FCD.
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Regarding the A/C clutch, yeah that's how I wired it. I never got it working right and my thought is that I probably have a bad input on my ECU.
Thanks for all your super informative posts. I am jealous of your verbosity.
We can't Use Insight ECU A27 to control the Compressor Clutch Relay coil.
Climate control unit outputs a 5v signal to the ECU (A27) when A/C is requested. ECU (A17) then grounds the Compressor Clutch Relay coil. Compressor pumps refrigerant. ECU A27 cannot be used to ground the Compressor Clutch Relay coil because it outputs a 5 volt signal.
That 5v signal can be used to control a relay which in turn grounds the Compressor Clutch Relay coil. Below I have edited the 2000 - 2006 schematic on Climate Control:
![AC Control.png]()
I'm suggesting (and going to try it today) that a relay is added to allow the climate control unit to control the compressor without input from the ECU, since the RSX relies on multiplexing for that function. To idle up the engine when the compressor is turned on, I' wondering why the PSPSW output can be used. Hydraulic power steering is not used on the Insight, as you know. Take any vanilla Civic and turn the steering wheel at idle. Engine idles up. Use that system to idle up the engine upon A/C request.
Please tell me what you think.
It looks promising, and I very much want all of the bugs and quirks worked out! I'm definitely out of A/C season right now (it might snow on Friday) and I'm unsure if I'll have time or incentive to touch this wiring until next summer, even if I'd like to.
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66.2mpg???
Best tank, yes, with careful hypermiling. Average has otherwise been in the low 40's using only gears 1-5, with a lot of short trips and driving in light traffic.
Today I spent most of my Saturday helping the shop manager at AAMCO put my transmission back together. It's apparently hard to find good help and he had been stuck for a few days, needed a fresh perspective. 
Diagnosis: The magnesium casing I purchased had one of the bearing seats ovaled out, which I should have noticed - one of the bearings went in suspiciously easy. This is apparently common with magnesium cases, as it's a weaker metal in most ways than aluminum is. I had also shimmed the transmission wrong which was letting the shaft slide laterally a bit, and between the two of these, that's probably why it was popping out. Driving around holding it in 6th occasionally put some wear on one of the shift sleeves, so I bought a hardened replacement for that from Synchrotech.
Rather than get another magnesium case, I took it on authority from a few sources I felt I could trust that the Accord 5 speed aluminum case was identical on the outside, that the internals were (mostly) interchangeable, that Accord parts can be put into a TSX case so therefore I should have no problems putting the TSX gears into the Accord case, which is less likely to wear out due to it being made of aluminum, as well as being cheaper and easier to acquire.
WRONG!
Turns out the internal castings of the two cases are different. The 5-6 shift fork on the Accord case has the fork for reverse welded in place at the bottom of the fork shaft, and when the shifter is moved right and down (into reverse) the fork moves a blank (with a syncro, amusingly) into the position that has 6th gear in the TSX case, it also engages reverse.
In the TSX gearset, the reverse fork rides on the 5-6 fork shaft but is not welded in place, as shifting into 6th would put the transmission into both reverse and 6th gear - which would be bad. Reverse has its own ... erm, not sure the proper name, but it's what the shift lever presses on. So anyhow, the reverse fork from the TSX contacts some of the structural ribbing in the Accord case when not engaged, and that needed to be cut/ground out of the way.
Transmission will likely go back in the car on Monday. And, I will have the weirdest K series box: Accord case, TSX 1-5, 2012 Civic Si 6th gear, 2006 Civic Si limited slip differential, and a custom final drive originally intended for Mini Cooper K swaps.
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Diagnosis: The magnesium casing I purchased had one of the bearing seats ovaled out, which I should have noticed - one of the bearings went in suspiciously easy. This is apparently common with magnesium cases, as it's a weaker metal in most ways than aluminum is. I had also shimmed the transmission wrong which was letting the shaft slide laterally a bit, and between the two of these, that's probably why it was popping out. Driving around holding it in 6th occasionally put some wear on one of the shift sleeves, so I bought a hardened replacement for that from Synchrotech.
Rather than get another magnesium case, I took it on authority from a few sources I felt I could trust that the Accord 5 speed aluminum case was identical on the outside, that the internals were (mostly) interchangeable, that Accord parts can be put into a TSX case so therefore I should have no problems putting the TSX gears into the Accord case, which is less likely to wear out due to it being made of aluminum, as well as being cheaper and easier to acquire.
WRONG!
Turns out the internal castings of the two cases are different. The 5-6 shift fork on the Accord case has the fork for reverse welded in place at the bottom of the fork shaft, and when the shifter is moved right and down (into reverse) the fork moves a blank (with a syncro, amusingly) into the position that has 6th gear in the TSX case, it also engages reverse.
In the TSX gearset, the reverse fork rides on the 5-6 fork shaft but is not welded in place, as shifting into 6th would put the transmission into both reverse and 6th gear - which would be bad. Reverse has its own ... erm, not sure the proper name, but it's what the shift lever presses on. So anyhow, the reverse fork from the TSX contacts some of the structural ribbing in the Accord case when not engaged, and that needed to be cut/ground out of the way.
Transmission will likely go back in the car on Monday. And, I will have the weirdest K series box: Accord case, TSX 1-5, 2012 Civic Si 6th gear, 2006 Civic Si limited slip differential, and a custom final drive originally intended for Mini Cooper K swaps.
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I am a bit confused.
The counter shaft is positively positioned by the spring clip that fits into the groove in the bearing at the top end of the shaft. Did you mean that your input shaft was shimmed incorrectly?
Did you verify that your new? 5-6 shift collar (sleeve) has internal teeth on both sides? Because if it looks like the picture tekcajwolley posted above, it's most likely still going to pop out of gear.
The counter shaft is positively positioned by the spring clip that fits into the groove in the bearing at the top end of the shaft. Did you mean that your input shaft was shimmed incorrectly?
Did you verify that your new? 5-6 shift collar (sleeve) has internal teeth on both sides? Because if it looks like the picture tekcajwolley posted above, it's most likely still going to pop out of gear.
I ordered the correct shift sleeve. When I spoke with the shop manager at AAMCO, he at first told me that the Accord and TSX 5-6 sleeve were the same, but later got back to me that I was right and we could not use the Accord sleeve.
And yes, my apologies, I meant the input shaft.
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126 Posts
New questions/comments:
1. What throttle cable did you go with? I went with stock Insight with stock Insight bracket plus a 1" spacer. It's crude but effective for now, the Accord bracket was too short. If I wasn't such a noob with welding I'd hack and extend the Accord piece or investigate a shorter cable.
2. No matter how much I trim off the ABS module bracket, the ABS itself is uncomfortably close to the pulley. It appears you mega zip tied it to an anchor somewhere with no bracket to speak of. Details please?
3. I plan to use your supplied Kpro file, transcribed to my Ktuner as a refined basemap. Other than cam design ('04-05 vs '06-07) the only internal differences we have are your K20 oil pump and my Ktuned header. I will probably pull timing on the entire map a few degrees and go from there. I've never tuned so this will be either an epic achievement or a complete disaster.
4. I became intimately aware of thrust clearances for transmissions during my many months piecing together a unit from 3 parts cores only to destroy the outer case due to binding on the shaft (sadly documented in my thread). My advice is to measure 16 times then shave (or buy) once. I'll never get those 3 months of frustration back.
Mak
1. What throttle cable did you go with? I went with stock Insight with stock Insight bracket plus a 1" spacer. It's crude but effective for now, the Accord bracket was too short. If I wasn't such a noob with welding I'd hack and extend the Accord piece or investigate a shorter cable.
2. No matter how much I trim off the ABS module bracket, the ABS itself is uncomfortably close to the pulley. It appears you mega zip tied it to an anchor somewhere with no bracket to speak of. Details please?
3. I plan to use your supplied Kpro file, transcribed to my Ktuner as a refined basemap. Other than cam design ('04-05 vs '06-07) the only internal differences we have are your K20 oil pump and my Ktuned header. I will probably pull timing on the entire map a few degrees and go from there. I've never tuned so this will be either an epic achievement or a complete disaster.
4. I became intimately aware of thrust clearances for transmissions during my many months piecing together a unit from 3 parts cores only to destroy the outer case due to binding on the shaft (sadly documented in my thread). My advice is to measure 16 times then shave (or buy) once. I'll never get those 3 months of frustration back.
Mak
I believe I answered some of these questions elsewhere, but I got the stock cable working using the Accord bracket.
You're right about the ABS module, I just took the bracket off and mega zip tied it to the rail. I'm actually working on a new bracket for it.
I have a much refined tune now, and highly recommend it. It is, of course, still a work in progress:
drive.google.com
I ended up taking my transmission to Aamco to get it right. Turns out I missed several things.
You're right about the ABS module, I just took the bracket off and mega zip tied it to the rail. I'm actually working on a new bracket for it.
I have a much refined tune now, and highly recommend it. It is, of course, still a work in progress:
EckyTune11/9/19.kal
drive.google.com
I ended up taking my transmission to Aamco to get it right. Turns out I missed several things.
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1,019 Posts
what was wrong with your transmission? Or is the edited part of the post above the full update on what was causing your issues?
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