[nayrhyno]

I definately have a problem with that connector. One wire is seperated from teh top side, and one of the pins is corroded through. I can find the part number of it though. I may just relace it with a molex conector from a PC or something.

 

[Mike Dabrowski 2000]

I was lucky I stole one from the blue Insight harness.
May be better to just solder the wires, tape or heat shrink the connections and be done with it, as you will probably never have to disconnect that harness.

 

[nayrhyno]

I did the repair with a molex connector, because it was the best thing I had laying around. I would have had to solder in an extension anyway, so it was easy enough to use the connector. I just re-did the wire that was corroded through, leaving the other three leads for future repairs if necessary. Its funny that just that wire was corroded so much, both ends were lose and the pin was broken off. Maybe it is the only one in that bundle with voltage always across it? At least now we know that blue with yellow stripe in the blue harness near the passenger seat belt re-tractor is the power to the trunk actuator .

I attached some shots to show the repair. I was generous with my taping to try and keeep water out in the future.

 

[Mike Dabrowski 2000]

My connector had only one pin that was corroded right through as well, so It may have to do with the voltage. That rear hatch power lead is always on, waiting for us to press the latch release, and a little water sitting in that cavity, and we have a nice electrolysis cell.

A good way to really seal a tape job is to coat the tape with PVC pipe cement. This seals and holds the tape together, but still allows it to be removed if necessary.
MIMA Honda Insight Modified Integrated Motor Assist - Black tape and PVC cement

 

[nayrhyno]

That would work well. I just opted for two layers of wrapped tape. Haha. Thanks for the input on that harness. I would have replaced my actuator and then been very frustrated when it still didn't work! Its easy to forget the simple things some times.

 

[redracer]

trunk not opening dangerous?

My 2000 Insight just developed this problem with the trunk not opening (and yes with humming noise) this week.

1. Is this dangerous if I don't have it looked into right away?

2. I am also wondering if is corrosion could be linked to any of these factors
-car garaged for years but now sits out in 100 degree sun all day due to job change
-just had work done in the hatch area getting new tires last week
-car was flooded in September

3. Would you recommend a mechanic specializing in electrical systems over a Honda dealer?

 

[Mike Dabrowski 2000]

Flooded is a relative term. Exactly what was wet, how wet and for how long?

If the car was flooded and water sat in side for any length of time, what is really needed is to pull each connector in the car and check them for corrosion, and be prepared to replace any that are corroded.
Buying a new harness from honda is also a possibility.
After I replaced my bad connector no other issues due to corrosion have cropped up.

 

[redracer]

trunk/hatch not opening in 2000 Insight

I drove through about a foot of water in a flooded parking lot. The engine did not stall but the entire undercover shield beneath the engine and wiring components fell off from the force of the water. The dealer said everything was fine and I do not know what got wet but it did not come inside the car, at least not visibly.

The question was if after all this time, if a connector did get wet in September, and was not checked, could problems crop up after all this time?

And again, do I need to stop driving the car immediately because of whatever is causing the hatch not to open?

 

[Mike Dabrowski 2000]

While the underside probably got pretty wet, the harnesses I am talking about are inside the car, so I really don't think the september "flood" has anything to do with this problem.

The rear hatch issue I had was the connector under the molding near the passenger seat belt, and rainwater was running down into it causing the corrosion.
If that is your issue, you should be able to drive indefinitely. The rear hatch should still open with the rear hatch key.

 

[Varak]

I guess it's my turn to have this issue.

When I press the hatch release button, I hear the motor whirring, but the hatch doesn't release.

I can still open it manually, so the physical connections seem to be in place.

Should I just go ahead and order a new actuator assembly or take it apart first to see if something else might be the issue? (and if so, what should I look for)

 

[Varak]

I went ahead and ordered the actuator.

I also found a new supplier that I thought I'd share since they offered the part for about the same price as majestic ($60.12 vs $60.81), but they offered free shipping and no handling charge. Total savings was $16.68 vs Majestic.

http://www.g1parts.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=74840-S3Y-003

 

[Ben2.0]

For those of you who had the failure but with the whirring sound, Has anyone determined what part of the actuator failed and is it possible to fix? I'm debating if I should pull mine out and have a look or order the part first.

Thanks,

 

[i4n]

Thank you!

rabl:

Thanks for posting the photos and directions. I followed them and fixed my broken trunk latch. Thanks for saving me lots of dough!

Varak:

Thanks for linking to the part -- I purchased the one you linked to from g1parts.com and it worked perfectly.

 

[Geodesiq]

Just to add to the chorus, I'm having the same problem. A whirring noise but the actuator won't release unless I use a key. I will check out the connector near the seat belt as Mike mentioned before doing the actuator. Is it necessary to remove the seat? If so how do you remove the rear bolts? They look pretty tough to attack.

Just wondering if the fob is supposed to open the hatch release. In the manual it only mentions the front doors. And thanks for the photos. I'm sure it'll make the job a lot easier.

 

[gilbertguy]

If you are hearing the whirling sound then that is the problem, the wiring issues might be the fix if there was no sound at all. I've got the same problem and need to order the hatch release also. Also from what I understand the FOB only unlocks the doors but does not release the hatch.

 

[5631]

Also from what I understand the FOB only unlocks the doors but does not release the hatch.

Pressing the fob's unlock button twice should unlock the hatch as well as the passenger door. I've only needed to use my key to open my hatch after I've removed my 12 v. battery.

 

[Vikroda]

For those of you who had the failure but with the whirring sound, Has anyone determined what part of the actuator failed and is it possible to fix? I'm debating if I should pull mine out and have a look or order the part first.

Thanks,

Have you pulled out your actuator?

It took me a while to figure out the timing for turning the key and pressing latch to get the trunk open but I'm pretty proficient at it now. I could live with the way it is but if there's a simple fix I'd be up for trying it.

 

[gilbertguy]

I ordered the hatch release motor last week, can't wait to get the part and change it out so I don't have to use the key to open the hatch any more!

 

[gilbertguy]

Just replaced the hatch release motor last night, was a little tight getting the rod to the latch mechanism loose. Take the 3 big phillips screws out of the latch mechanism, this will let the release motor drop down enough to get to that rod disconnected.

Since I bought it with the motor not releasing the hatch and have been using the key it is so nice to finish the job and just lift the hatch button above the plate and it pops right open!

 

[faxe]

Reading this tread i had to go look at my Insight, i had not even noticed
the keyhole in the right rearlight.....

So far i have no issue with the hatch release, but i know the previous owner had
the known water leak fixed, so i might as well check the connector Mike pointed
out, just to prevent future problems.