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MPI code p1575

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13K views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  rudyred  
#1 ·
Two days ago the check engine light came on. p1575, motor power inverter module voltage malfunction (per Autozone). Assist and regen appear normal.

Two weeks ago at morning startup heard a loud noise like a broken fan belt hitting sheet metal and engine failed to start. IMA light and check engine light illuminated. I switched the key off and (after my heart rate returned to near normal) made a second attempt to start engine. Engine started normally with the IMA, IMA light went out and check engine light stayed on. After running a few errands (3-4 miles) I pulled the 12v neg. cable, reset the check engine light and no more problems until two days ago.

Allso, about four weeks ago also at morning startup I turned the key, IMA briefly engaged engine did not start. IMA light lit. I turned key again and engine started on the 12v system. I immediately pulled the 12v neg cable and had no more issues for two weeks.

A search turned up a similar incident in 2010 but I could not find any follow up to his problem. Is anyone familiar with this malfunction and can you see what the future holds for this machine.
Thanks for your input.
 
#2 ·
Assuming you have a G1.
Ground straps for the electrical system (In the engine area) and condition of the 12V battery.
Load test the 12V battery, don't just measure the voltage of the battery.
Lots of reading about the malfunction here at ICN. Search and ye shall find!

HTH
Willie
 
#3 ·
Check your ground straps, as Willie said.
 
#4 ·
P1575

Thanks for the replies. My testing of voltage and continuity does not indicate an obvious problem with ground straps or voltage of the 12v.
Voltage across the terminals with ignition off is 12.6, voltage with ingition on (engine not running) and lights and fan on is 11.7 (same as willie posted in 05). I will see if these readings hold after the car has sat unused for two or three days, as this malfunction has shown up only under those conditions.
Resistance from neg. battery post to transmission housing is .8 ohms. Resistance from pos. battery post to pos battery terminal is .9 ohms.
I have found a total of three references to p1575 on insight central. One involved a partially burned 100A fuse, another (which had a 1576 which is the same) was due to some low sticks in the HV battery, and the third did not post a followup, but was speculated to be a blown capacitor or transistor in the MPI module.
The car is a 2000 MT with both batteries three years old, has a clutch switch which is used constantly, and is charged to full about once a month with a "dumb charger". In this hot southern climate maybe that's not often enough?
Except for those three episodes, the car is perfectly normal.
Thanks again, and I'll post again after further observation.
 
#5 ·
Thanks for the replies. My testing of voltage and continuity does not indicate an obvious problem with ground straps or voltage of the 12v.
Voltage across the terminals with ignition off is 12.6, voltage with ingition on (engine not running) and lights and fan on is 11.7 (same as willie posted in 05). I will see if these readings hold after the car has sat unused for two or three days, as this malfunction has shown up only under those conditions.
Resistance from neg. battery post to transmission housing is .8 ohms. Resistance from pos. battery post to pos battery terminal is .9 ohms.
I have found a total of three references to p1575 on insight central. One involved a partially burned 100A fuse, another (which had a 1576 which is the same) was due to some low sticks in the HV battery, and the third did not post a followup, but was speculated to be a blown capacitor or transistor in the MPI module.
The car is a 2000 MT with both batteries three years old, has a clutch switch which is used constantly, and is charged to full about once a month with a "dumb charger". In this hot southern climate maybe that's not often enough?
Except for those three episodes, the car is perfectly normal.
Thanks again, and I'll post again after further observation.
Those resistance readings are a bit high IMO. A clean battery terminal should be almost zero. Take the air cleaner off and inspect the cables, AND clean the cable attachments and attachment bolts, particlularly the battery terminals. Autostores have a handy steel brush which will make brignt and clean.
 
#6 ·
It can't hurt to take the 12V battery to Autozone or similar and have them load test it. 3 years in Texas will kill most batteries.

While I didn't have your specific trouble code, my car exhibits odd starting behavior (including attempting to start on the 12V system) right before the 12V completely dies.