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I added more to my etsy. If for some reason this part breaks, then it can be glued back together with acetone or MEK. They can also be strengthened by painting or dipping in acetone (this chemically welds the abs layers together preventing delamination). Thanks for the orders everyone. The parts in this batch are all kinda two tone because I was switching out feedstock filament in my machine.

Clint[/QUOTE

Hi, I'm not in US and I live in Hong Kong (SAR) and have the same problem,
hope to order this part for fit the problem. How can I order with you?
If you agree, can you mail me 1 parts and I send you back the money for
this small amount?
Thanks your help.:)
 

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The 3d printed part worked great for me. However, I broke two grey clips while trying to remove the back carpet piece. When I was at lowes today looking for clips for something else, I found a perfect replacement. They are a different type of clip, more like the ones in the storage area, but should be less likely to break the next time.
 

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Another functional trunk. Sorry.... dealership!!

Well, nice day in NH and decided to attempt to repair trunk actuator with Clint's 3D printed delivery. My symptoms were: grinding noise when press trunk release latch and also when attempting to open manually with key; NO manual unlock working via key.

Inspected and found that the long actuator rod had become disconnected from the rear of the key cylinder (used for manual open). No broken parts there so re-attached and verified manual operation of opening trunk with key ONLY.

Of course since I had Clint's 3D parts in hand, I had to attempt the actuator repair. Not too shabby of a fix. Thanks to ALL who had any input, photos, tips and tricks.

I would DEFINITELY agree on ALL of the below items:
--> Removing the 3 phillips head screws + 1 electrical connection and take out the trunk latch along with the actuator assembly (4 13mm screws + 1 electrical connection) since they are held together via a rod and some plastic linkage parts (would not want to damage them); don't forget to disconnect the small greenish latch that attaches the long actuator rod to the rear of the key cylinder behind the passenger side tail light.
--> Sanding down the 3D printed piece from Clint until it is just slightly thicker than the original broken piece. I did not sand the 'detent' side at all to avoid any issues with the spring loaded piece not seating correctly. Just sand a little at a time because you can't add it back on if you take too much off, but we all should know that by now. If you don't shave enough when you go to perform the TEST mentioned below all you will hear is a click and NO motion.
--> After part has been replaced and actuator re-assembled, test manually by hand; works best to have actuator, trunk latch and actuator rod in lap while seated to perform this motion. Grab the long actuator rod and move back and forth left to right and ensure smooth full range movement as well as motion in the linkage that connects to the trunk latch assembly.
--> Test before installing: WITH TRUNK OPEN, and both assemblies not installed but held gently in hand, long rod to the right (while leaning over spare tire area) and press the trunk release button with your free hand to verify smooth movement. I made the mistake of installing and no worky after I had already closed the trunk. Made it a real pain to open....ANYWAYS! If you don't just hear a click and the movement is good, go ahead and re-install actuator, trunk latch and long actuator rod (snap rod in place). Make both electrical connections and tighten all bolts. Leave trunk open and perform same 'push the release button' and visually verify long actuator rod motion. Sweet. Now close the trunk and test. Can also test the manual key method. Re-install everything else you removed.

Go for a test drive. Just had to say that; like we need an excuse! :D

Well, I hope this wasn't too boring and helps. I didn't take any pics because all of the necessary ones are already present in this thread. Once again, thanks to ALL!!
 

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I have a weird problem. After using Prototypist part and have it installed, my motor gets "jammed". I did file down some of the plastic to make the part fit but for some strange reason, it keeps getting jammed. It would work and get stuck at that position. I am thinking, can it be too tight and I need to file it down more or do I need to get some more lube? If so, what kind of lube?

Thanks.
 

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I have a weird problem. After using Prototypist part and have it installed, my motor gets "jammed". I did file down some of the plastic to make the part fit but for some strange reason, it keeps getting jammed. It would work and get stuck at that position. I am thinking, can it be too tight and I need to file it down more or do I need to get some more lube? If so, what kind of lube?

Thanks.
...?too tight?...Sounds like what I encountered. Read my post on page 14 post #137. I listed some detail on what I did to get it working.

Still works great!

..Bob
 

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...?too tight?...Sounds like what I encountered. Read my post on page 14 post #137. I listed some detail on what I did to get it working.

Still works great!

..Bob
Those are exactly the symptoms I am having!!! But I don't think it was because it was too tight. When I removed the top, it didn't release the pressure. In order to release the pressure, I had to physically take out the gears and I can see on the top of the gear that is connected to the motor, that was stuck. I will try to file both sides down with sandpaper and see how that goes. Everything is worth a shot!
 

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Those are exactly the symptoms I am having!!! But I don't think it was because it was too tight. When I removed the top, it didn't release the pressure. In order to release the pressure, I had to physically take out the gears and I can see on the top of the gear that is connected to the motor, that was stuck. I will try to file both sides down with sandpaper and see how that goes. Everything is worth a shot!
Be careful not to sand away the detent.:!:

..Bob
 

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So I sanded away a good portion of the part and it still gets stuck. What's strange is that it worked for 5 times I played with it when I haven't installed the motor back onto the car but once I did, it stopped working. Haha. I added grease on the shaft where it is connected. When the grease is gone, it stopped working. I'm going to sand down some more but it looks pretty much the same size as the broken one now... Maybe I should add a ton of grease.
 

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You may have tightened down the motor housing screws a little to tight thus pinching it? Not sure but worth a try?
 

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You may have tightened down the motor housing screws a little to tight thus pinching it? Not sure but worth a try?
Thats what I thought at first so I let it loose for a little bit, still didn't work. :( BUT I solved the problem. I sanded down a little bit more, removed the grease (or just had enough to make it feel a little slippery) and flipped the little plastic part around so that the spring mechanism is on the inside (towards the gear) instead of on the outside (towards the base). THIS solved all my problems! It kept working for at least 30 times that I tried last night. I put it into the car, and it worked beautifully. No more issues!
 

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So was it a part malfunction or an assembly mistake?

Willie
 

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So was it a part malfunction or an assembly mistake?

Willie
I guess a little bit of both. That is why I sanded some more. The part seemed too rough where the shaft touches the part. So I sanded it to make it smoother and made the opening bigger. I also reassembled it a different way and that fixed all the problems I had.

BTW Willie, did you get my PM?
 

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No,
Anti seizure compound works also.

Willie
 

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I got one of prototypist's little blue parts (white, actually) from Shapeways and it works great! I was very happy to fix this for a few dollars.
 

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I just put up 8 more on my etsy site. I can of course print more as needed.

Clint
Hey Clint,

:) Another happy customer...
Once again, thanks for making these available -- saved me some $$ and helped me get my tinkering fix.
Probably took about 20 min start to finish (5 of which involved hooking up the long rod)
Thanks to all of the tips from other members.
 

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Just ordered one of the parts from etsy, been dragging my feet on buying the honda part due to the expense and the fact that the manual latch using the key works, but it will be nice to get the electric latch working again for a nominal cost.
 

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Can someone give me a summary of the problem, so I don't have to read 11 pages of "me too" or "that sucks" or "$290 dealer repair is too much" repetitition? WHY is the hatch motor refusing to open the lock?
 
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