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Installing Air Conditioning / Transplant

11K views 17 replies 8 participants last post by  jeff652  
#1 · (Edited)
As some of you know a friend and myself bought a parts car this spring. I mainly wanted the transmission and AC. Well, the transmission is going in tomorrow, and I have been working on the AC the last few days. Here is what I have learned:

First, my car came from the factory without AC
The parts car seems to have come from the factory with AC
My friends car seems to have had dealer installed AC

First the AC breaks down into multiple units:

1. AC dash display which is interchangeable with the non AC version. Both use the same plugs, but have different button and display functions.

2. The Evaporator assembly. This is the black module on the passenger side that sits under the glove box. The non ac version only contains a cabin filter. The AC version has an evaporator and temp sensor. There was an unconnected plug under my dash that fit. There were also two rubber plugs / grommets for the lines going to the engine bay. To replace the unit the glove box has to be removed.At the bottom there is a plastic strip covering a metal strip. These have to be removed (I cut the plastic strip as in the cabin filter change (another thread). The meatal piece comes out. Unbolt and slide out old unit, replace with Evaporator.

3 . Main connection lines and mounting bracket. There are aluminum and rubber connection lines that run from the firewall to the front of the car. there is also a bracket near the ABS brake module. All the mounting points were there. However the electrical plug did not match with the parts car even though the wires are color coded the same. However my friends car had a plug adapter between these plugs. This is why we think his car had dealer option AC. I just cut the plug off the parts car and will either do a pin replacement, or solder and shrink wrap the connections. On the end of these lines is the receiver dryer. It has a mounting point in the front passeger side behind and below the headlight.

4. Compressor. There are 4 tapped holes in the front of the oil pan for mounting the compressor. For some reason the bottom two were very tight, but went in with some work. This is accessible from the front of the car with the plastic panel removed (non AC version. It also helped, but wasn't required to have the underbody panels removed. The parts car had two plugs coming off the harness, one of which is for engaging the compressor clutch. my car had a single plug near the hood latch. My friends car has a adapter plug with and extension. This same plug feeds the condenser fan motor. Again all the wiring color codes matched. So I cut the plugs off of the parts car and will solder / shrink wrap them on.

5. Belt, and Idler wheel. First, the AC belt is longer than the non AC belt. Second, non AC uses a grooved wheel that sits in the belt loop and pushes forward for tension. The AC version uses a flat wheel that sits outside the loop and pushes back for belt tension. The assembly is identical other than the wheel. I just switched these and put on a new belt.

6. The evaporator / fan. All of the mounting brackets are already in place. But the front plastic components and headlights need to be removed. The fan plug also needs to be soldered / shrink wrapped unless you have an adapter plug available. There is also a little plastic shield that blocks air flow above the evaporator.

Once all the coolant connections are cleaned and checked the system can be purged and filled. Everything has been done except mounting the evaporator which I will do after the transmission is swapped. All in all easier than I thought it would be other than the plugs. It appears that factory AC uses a different wiring harness than non AC, and dealer installed AC uses adapter plugs. No biggie in the end.


Link to Kit at Majectic Honda - https://www.hondaautomotiveparts.co...&catcgry1=INSIGHT&catcgry2=2000&catcgry3=3DR+DX&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=A/C+KIT
 
#3 · (Edited)
Just wired the 3 connectors on, 7 wires total, but came across another minor issue. The 3 relay blocks in the fuse boxes need to be pulled. One for powering up the condenser fan and the other for turning on the compressor. There is also a little relay in the little box in front of the main fuse box. They are located on the left side of the fuse box under the hood and are designated by a snowflake and condenser symbol / compressor relay symbol.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Any Idea what the AC kit includes from Majestic? Is it every thing? Been considering buying a kit for my 2001. for 863 It just might be worth it...
I'm not sure, there are quite a bit of little things I hadn't anticipated, but had available in the parts car. The parts breakdown at Majestic isn't specific enough.

Btw, just transplanted the tranny Monday. The condenser was mounted today along with the final connections. Just need to get it evacuated and charged.
 
#13 ·
I can tell two things from this answer.

1) You are not married....and if the insight is your date transportation, may never be....#:cool:

2) You dont live in the deep south.
 
#8 ·
I got the kit from Majestic, contains all the necessary stuff that is on the Install instructions. Have to get it installed soon... will let you know of the progress. Step 1 is to move the Air Mix Doors out of the way, turn on the ignition... which I can't do since the Battery pack is out of the car (at Ron's). Anybody know a way around this or should I just ignore it?
 
#11 · (Edited)
No idea as I just pulled out the black module with the air filter and replaced it with the module that had the evaporator and filter. Everything fit and cleared with no issues. The blower unit (right side) and the unit with all the venting and doors (left side) were completely seperate from the evaporator unit (center).
 
#15 ·
On item #1, I wasnt refering to the Insights looks. I have had several people say to me that they really liked the new Porsche. I have also seen Lambo door kits for the Insight.

No, I was referring to the cooling system. I have a wife, two daughters, and five grand daughters. Not a one of them would be happy in a car cooled with ice water and not an air conditioner.

But then where they all live the 2pm temp on a summer day can be as high as 105F and the night time temp may fall as low as 75F on a really cool night.
 
#16 ·
The system was successfully evacuated and charged and seems to be running fine. For roughly 5 miles in stop and go it netted about 75 mpg, average speed of 25 - 35mph, auto stop worked as it is supposed to. On the way home I took a 45 mph road, no stops, 115mpg for 10 miles while running AC on auto / econ set at 72F blowing cold air. Battery was roughly 50% when I left the garage and almost dead 15 miles later when I pulled in the driveway.
 
#17 ·
1. AC dash display which is interchangeable with the non AC version. Both use the same plugs, but have different button and display functions.


Did you change the dash display? I am wondering whether removing the A/C system including the 3 A/C relays would affect any of the non-A/C functions controlled by the buttons on the dash display (such as fan speed, rear defroster, air temperature control etc)? In the Honda guide to installing the A/C system they mention that dash display is replaced.
 
#18 ·
I'm going to be installing a complete AC system into a 2000 in a week and will have the complete non-AC "system" (parts) for sale soon if anyone wants to shed the weight and have the dash/ducting/firewall sealed up properly.